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#1
08-01-12, 05:08
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The advance is purely mechanical...no vacuum diaphragm on a jeep.
To check the timing, you can replace the number one shielded spark plug wire with a normal 7mm or even an 8mm wire with both ends square cut. On that you can use a normal inductive timing light, with only one battery hooked to the power leads (12 volt or you will burn out your light). If you have one of the fancy lights, you can retard your timing on the light by 30 degrees or so, rev up the jeep motor to 2000 rpm, and see if the mark on the pulley goes back to zero. To check the weights, it's easy enough. Remove the distributor cap, and try and turn the rotor. It should rotate (about 30°) and then spring back to where it came from. You should occasionally oil the wights pivot pin....remove the points plate and the weights are underneath. To adjust the timing, you loosen the bolt at the block, and turn the distributor. Popping on acceleration can also be stale gasoline or else spark plugs that are over gapped (30 thou is the correct gap). Last edited by rob love; 09-01-12 at 04:27. 
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#2
08-01-12, 22:53
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I thought so and you confirmed it...unfortunately the wieghts are seized so they have not seized that long ago as it did run in the summer.
So I am guessing liberal amounts of rustinhibitor and try to move then slowly together outwards? plugs fine new and i did gap at 3 thou as well the leads are good and the rotor and cap look new pomits as well not burned at all. Oh and finally found the elusive bolt that hold the distributor from rotating. Can't they make anything for large hands? heater assmebly had to be removed to get in there... Any ideas about the weights solutions used to free them up will be appreciated? thanks again Rob! Hows the 105 coming along? ready to invade North Dakota yet!? LOL
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M38A1 CDN 53-32490
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#3
09-01-12, 04:27
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I would suggest that you turn your engine to TDC, note the position of your rotor, and yank out the distributor. You have to lubricate both the bushings on the weights, and the upper shaft where it moves in relation to the lower. As often as I have seen the weights seized, I have also seen the springs rusted to the point of imminent failure. You will want to check them as well.
If you want to see the progress on the howitzer, have a look at my thread about it over on the G503. http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=189187
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#4
09-01-12, 07:24
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Well the springs look pretty good and got the weights to jiggle in the slots but cant seem to turn the shaft to get them to open. I checked my small block chev distributor and it does move like you said this one should. Put the rotor on and nope won't budge but the weights are now loose but won't open so i am guessing it is the upper shaft that is actually seized. So okay thought I'd have to take it out. It's ready to do so tomorrow.
Thanks Rob and yes will look at the gun now thanks!
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M38A1 CDN 53-32490
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#5
09-01-12, 14:10
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Remember that the jeep distributor rotates counter clockwise. The shaft should advance left, not to the right.
If you pull the rotor off, you can lube the shaft by putting some oil into the top of the shaft.
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#6
10-01-12, 03:03
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Hey thanks didn't know about the counter clockwise rotation...hmmm? well have the distributor out and did oil that last night but still nothing. the weights will jiggle a little but the top shaft will not turn at all when the bottom is held or in the slot for the drive.
I am guessing I may have to take the tiny spring clip out that holds the shaft where you said to oil it...and I am guessing it is a pry open rather than squeeze to allow it to open up and come from the slot that it is in. then amybe i can free the top part from the lower? Going with out a manual here so...common sense takes over. thanks thus far and we'll see tonight on the bench! I have tried turning it both ways and nothing but now know which way it goes. and number one plug wire goes to the lower left hole in the distributor cap on the coil side? starting to foeget to take the pics...LOL?
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M38A1 CDN 53-32490
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#7
10-01-12, 06:02
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Always take photos...they cost nothing but can be invaluable as well as saving precious hours.
Number one can be anywhere on the distributor.....it all depends how the oil pump got installed. As long as you know where #1 was, you'll be OK as long as you remember the counter clockwise thing for your firing order. Be sure and let us know how it turns out.
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