Cmp c15a gs

[Joel Culliford]

Hey everyone

I have a question, well the students have a question. The temperature gauge, which has the wire attached to it, will not fit into the engine, the rebuild one is the wrong size. I should the threaded piece is the wrong size. Is there a way to just replace the threaded piece some how or does the whole wire have to be replaced?

Oh and does anyone have the dimensions for the canvas on the back? Actually does any have the length and dimensions for the bars that go across for the canvas.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[r.morrison]

Gentlemen: To help Joel and the High School out....as I just got off the phone tonight with him.... to clarify a couple of areas!! He has an oil gage, which has a sensor line or tube running to the engine block. The fitting that connects with the engine block, has a ball bearing inside it. AND that fitting does not fit the engine block, because the ball bearing does not fit into the block. This is a rebuilt unit, don't know the details, but any suggestions as to whether it should be returned to the "rebuilder" or we have the wrong fitting on the block.

Secondly....working on some donated parts for this project, however, Joel needs a pattern for the bows for the GS box and a supplier of canvas for the back. The 2 suggestions that I gave him was Brian Asbury and his surplus " to be altered tarps", that might be remade to suit this unit's needs. And the second was the "Great and Mr. Canvas.......Stewart Loy".


So the bottom line here, as far as Bows and Canvas, who in the Niagara Peninsula/ Toronto Area can provide a wee bit of help with patterns and measurements. As far as the oil guage.....your comments please. Kind regards to all ...Robert...

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Hi guys - I am a bit confused re. this gauge. Is it an electrical one that has a WIRE running to the sensor or is it a mechanical one that has a CONDUIT (TUBE) running to the sensor. Is it a round gauge or one of four that is in an instrument cluster with the half moon speedometer?

Secondly Joel, I will send you a new switch and plate to replace the one you had nicked.

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

I think Joel has a "Classic problem" with the temperature gauge.......

We have had the same problem at the barn.

Assuming I understand his temp. guage problem.

On the original 216 it has a large steel fitting that accommodates the steam tube to the front rad and on top a hole where the four sided fitting that holds the brass bubble tigth into the steel fitting and allows a temp reading for the gauge.

Well on rebuilt engines they don't usually come with that old style steel fitting and you have to use a modern brass fitting..... the problem is that modern temp guages do not have the same style tappered fitting and the old bubble and square nut/fitting form the CMP guages will not fit.....and modern after market temp guage will not fit the old style CMP steam fitting...... both Grant and I have had headaches on that one.

My solution was to fit a modern brass fitting into the head of the 261.... then a male/male fitting to a T brass fitting..... on side goes to the steam tube the top part accepts the brass fitting form the modern guage........ BUT what do I do when the origianl dash instrument guages cluster gets connected....?

I do have an original steel steam fitting that will fit the original CMP cab 11 cluster and may have to dismantle my temporary plumbers nightmare....

So my question is........ Joel.... do you have the original large size steel fitting that goes into the head of your modern 235.....?

Would pictures help ........?

Bottom line is if you want to use the original CMP temp guage.... whcih I assume is working and you tested it by dropping your guyage bulb in boiling water to see if the needle moves...... you will need and old fashion steel steam fitting....... it is the only thing that will fit on the old tappered surfaces of the guage brass bulb.......

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

This is the plumber's nightmare I adapted on my 261 to allow the use of a modern Princess auto temp guage to the 261 block.

Since that picture was taken the 1/4 turn valve has been removed and a proper 3/8 copper tube with heat shield has been added...... the valve was just an experiment to see what would happen if the engine was run and the valve closed...... interesting to see all the air/bubbles froth that came out towards the radiator when the engine had been running for a few minutes..... a lot of air seems to build up inside the head..... which convinced me that the tube should be open and allowed to flow all the time to prevent air pockets.

I will have pictures of the infamous large original steel fitting that was installed on 216 CMP engines tomorrow......

Keep warm..... 'tis colder than a mother-in-law's heart tonight.

Bob

[r.morrison]

Thanks 2 Bobs for your insight. I may have to add this item to Joel's wish list. But I'll double check with the 2 Bobs first. Mr "not so mechanically inclined"......... Robert (Bob)

[Phil Waterman]

There seems to be a huge variability in the size and location of the temperature sender on the Chevy inline 6. The original 216 engines from all three of my CMPs had the large tapped location rear of the block for the steam relief tube and temperature sender. The recent 1941 replacement NOS head I got for my HUP has only the smaller tapped location about 6" further forward, between cylinders 5&6. My 235 engine has the same small tapped location but it also has a cast boss for the other tapping directly over the #6 exhaust port. While the 261 has the large hole tapped at the forward position between 5&6.

Picture below shows the 235 head before cleaning, and yes this cleanup and is on the 235 engine now.

I have found inexpensive replacement gauges which had a full set of adapter busing to use with the different size tappings.

The steam relief tube is not needed in most conditions except for real steep up and down hill off roading. When the rear of the block may get to hot to quickly and form a steam bubble before the heat causes the thermostat to open fully.

So to some questions: How many people actually ever open the valve?
Lacking the large tapped hole for the steam tube and temperature sensor has any body used heater tube tap on the thermostat housing at the front of the engine?


What ever happened with the problem of the truck stalling when the clutch was pushed in? Has the problem been solved?

Cheers Phil