Mb jeep tranfer case oil seal

[Richard Coutts-Smith]

The garage has a CARPETED floor!
Trust the lampshades have matching shades....
Rich

[Little Jo]

Jason/Rob

Thanks guys for your imput, I now have more confidance to tackle the job, being careful not to scour the side walls.

Cheers

Tony

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by Richard Coutts-Smith

The garage has a CARPETED floor!
Trust the lampshades have matching shades....
Rich

Hi Rich

Yes mate my Jeep lives in luxury, I have to take into account the age of the old girl and the hard life lived before I rescued her from a cold and damp lean too on a farm. I thought she deserved to spend the rest of her days in comfort. Oh by the way she is kept company by the No: 4 trailer in the carpeted garage.

Cheers

Tony

[Lynn Eades]

One way to try to remove the seal is with a slide hammer. Panel beaters used a slide hammer with a self tapping screw welded to a nut on the slide hammer. Carefully drill a hole into the steel body of the seal. Wind the screw into the seal, hook up the slide hammer, and try it.
The old war time seals are steel bodied with leather and quite deep, and will be hard to get out. You might have to have 2 or 3 goes at it, but each time the screw pulls out of the hole it tends to reduce the dia. of the seal body. A neoprene seal will come out easier.
Oh, by the way, oil weeping from seals with an occasional drip was quite acceptable when your jeep was built. Have your self an ali drip tray or two made up to sit under her.

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

One way to try to remove the seal is with a slide hammer. Panel beaters used a slide hammer with a self tapping screw welded to a nut on the slide hammer. Carefully drill a hole into the steel body of the seal. Wind the screw into the seal, hook up the slide hammer, and try it.
The old war time seals are steel bodied with leather and quite deep, and will be hard to get out. You might have to have 2 or 3 goes at it, but each time the screw pulls out of the hole it tends to reduce the dia. of the seal body. A neoprene seal will come out easier.
Oh, by the way, oil weeping from seals with an occasional drip was quite acceptable when your jeep was built. Have your self an ali drip tray or two made up to sit under her.

Hi Lynn

Thanks mate, that is some good advice and I will try and hopefully be successful. I will let the group know how I get on.

Cheers

Tony

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Jo..
Use a Speedi Sleve and leave the old seal alone..
the quickest and sensible way
to repair worn shafts
To seal efficiently, radial shaft seals must run against a
smooth round surface - the seal counterface. If the
counterface becomes worn, and it usually does, then the
seal will no longer be able to fulfil its function, which is
to retain lubricant and to exclude contaminants - solid
particles as well as liquid.
Normally, the counterface will become grooved as a
contaminant particle is caught under the seal lip and
abrades a track as the shaft rotates. As this continues, the
seal will allow more particles to pass or get stuck, and
seal efficiency deteriorates, eventually leading to malfunction
of the component the seal is meant to protect.
To rectify the situation it is necessary to repair the
SPEEDI-SLEEVE® GOLD with a surface
hardness between 80 and 85 HRC for
heavy-duty applications.
counterface on the shaft - a simple seal replacement will
not be sufficient.
To repair the shaft it is usually necessary to dismantle
the machine in order to be able to handle the shaft and
then to grind down the counterface until it is smooth
again. If the grooves are deep the original size of seal
will no longer fit properly - a seal with a smaller bore
diameter has to be found.
Now there is an easy way to repair the counterface
with the shaft still in position and without having to look
for a different size of seal. The answer is the SPEEDISLEEVE

[jason meade]

However, using a speedysleeve still requires you to put a new oil seal in or you will end up with the same problem, besides you cant use a sleeve in that area anyway as your yoke for the drive shaft slides over it with a castle nut on the end.

[Lynn Eades]

Its a selector shaft seal.