Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

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I am a little disappointed with condition of the windscreen frame. There is substantial pitting inside the top cross rail. It won't be seen as far as I can tell, but I will have to replace the thin metal skin along the top. While at the blasters (primarily a heavy engineering works), I had them re-weld one of the vertical end pieces. Original welding had become cracked and it was nearing complete failure! N.B: In the above photo, I have allowed the panel to fall slightly forward of where it should be sitting, in order to take the photo.
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I did a trial fit to check alignment. everything aligns OK I guess, (at least at first testing) but I have an important question relating to final assembled position. In checking the total width of the two window frame openings, I have noted that the bottom would be approximately 3-4mm wider than measurement across the top. Both measurements taken from inner edge of the vertical end pieces that bolt onto the cab frame & door hinges.
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...Driver side........Mates side... (Both viewed from front of vehicle)

With reference to the two above photos, here is my question. When the vertical posts are bolted in final assembly position, should the windscreen frame posts sit flush with the alignment of the cab frame itself?

I.E: Are these posts simply bolted and pulled towards the door hinge side of the cab frame, which would leave them as they appear in the photos, or is there a spacer or packing of some kind to keep them aligned laterally flush with the cab itself????

If they are 'packed' slightly in a bit, to be flush along the vertical edge of cab frame, then measurements taken (left to right) across inner edges of the posts would then be correct and identical top to bottom. I have heaps of photos in my library, but can't find one which is good enough detail of that area for me to see properly!!!! I know this might have sounded like a daft question, but if there was a packing of 1-2mm each side, the window glass frames sit square in place. If no packing, they have a slightly wider gap at bottom. Rubber seal would cover it but doesn't look right.

HELP!!!!

[Keith Webb]

Looking at what I can find in close ups it would seem they vary a lot, possibly due to erratic alignment of the outer sheet metal part before it is welded to the frame. I don't recall ever seeing a packer on the inside. Generally they seem to stick out a little and are often out of square.

[Keith Webb]

Are the data plates that attach to the top of dashboard meant to be aluminium finish or painted color of the dash????

My understanding they were attached unpainted when new, but were covered with paint whenever the vehicle was repainted.

[Private_collector]

Thanks Keith.

That information is exactly what I needed.

I viewing the photos you posted, it looks like an excessive amount hanging out the side could possibly foul the door top front corner. I think your first photo shows this best.

Amongst the all the doors I have here, there are at least one which has a bent out corner which matches that location. By bent out I don't mean butchered, just a little 'tweak' to make fit perhaps. I'll take a closer look today when I get the chance.

At the end of this coming week, I will be on 2/52 vacation and may make a set of 2mm shims just as a trial. If they work, they might get used. If not.......bin em!

One of my pet hates is for things out of square. Anything out of square or out of plumb will bug me. It's not a issue of the offending part has been welded and can't be moved. In that case it's considered character, but if I can easily rectify, i'm inclined to do just that.

Buying a new house is a bloody nightmare if you can't handle things that are not straight........believe me!

Once again, thanks for the reply and information.

[Keith Webb]

Once again, thanks for the reply and information.

Glad to assist.

[Private_collector]

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It took hours, and I had to put a tarpaulin over, so paint (and I) didn't cook too quickly, but it's finally painted. In hindsight, the painting was the easy bit. Getting a freshly painted, heavy, truck part into the workshop again without damaging the paint, THAT was the hard part. Managed to do it with help from my son. He should be helping too, we spent 90 minutes and a lot of money at a Ford dealer on Friday, buying his first car. He owes me until approximately 2045!
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Frame now resting on the trolley again, ready to start assembling parts. That will wait until next weekend. Grease paper laid on the beams of trolley stops the paint from sticking!
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Instead of doing all the cleaning up then moving onto welding the rear panel, I decided to finish painting the floor plates and several other bits. Unless I damage them somehow, I can brush paint the bolt heads holding plates to frame, and I won't need to spray anything inside the workshop. The dust gets everywhere!

On my two weeks off, I hope to get the nose panel repaired (some dents need beating) and doors sandblasted. Maybe even get the doors painted. Windscreen frame won't need much sorting and should be finished and attached soon.

I don't know why my camera is taking worse quality photos every time I use it. Perhaps the heat is cooking it. I know it's cooking me!!!

[Private_collector]

Folks,

I am curretly looking to buy the following small items:
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x Window adjusting slides and full set of the hardware that locks the slides in place.
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x Mates side grab handle that goes on the floor.
x Gear shift pattern plate & the other information plates (Lube, cooling & 4WD warning).
x Rifle holder wooden bases x2.
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x Good quality (or easily repaired) steering wheel.

If you have any of these for a reasonable cost, let me know please.