cmp cab frame required

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Kevin

Yes, I believe you should be able to drop the sump in situ? I have dropped the sump on my C60S. Watch out though, because even when you have drained the pan it still holds a lot of oil up in the troughs. It is also heavy and awkward. Remember to pull the dip stick out it gets in the way, you need to pull the pan down a little over half inch to clear the oil line tube fitting so that it doesn't get bent.

The 2nd time I dropped the pan I had learned and replace four of the pan bolts with 1" long bolts on the corners. Then I removed the rest of the pan bolts. Then used a putty knife to release the gasket all the way around. If you have a floor jack you might want to put that under the lower sump once the pan is completely loose while you remove the last bolts. The jack will help balance the the pan as you bring it down clear of the front axle and drive shaft.

If your engine has the original deep sump pan, you can tell by looking to see if there is a seam about 3 inches up the sump, the oil pump and pickup screen actually sit down in the lower sump and will tend to catch on the sides of the upper section. The deep sump pans were made by cutting a hole in the bottom of a regular pan and then soldering a second bottom section on. The bottom of the upper pan serves a purpose in helping to prevent the oil from sloshing away from the oil pick up in steep operation or rough terrain.

Cheers Phil

[kevin powles]

Hi, Front cab was completley removed today, noticed the rear mounting bolt spring was broken. Continued to powerwash oil/dirt off, windscreen and frame is repairable as is the cab floor, plan is to grit blast and have zinc coated aswell as the archers and windscreen frame.

Looking ahead I was wondering has anyone ever used a modern day brake bleeder, the type which connects to your car tyre, If I was to connect this to the resovoir and seal the connection, could I then bleed off from each brake as you would a normal car brake system, or can someone supply the correct bleeding tool as in the workshop manual.

kev. thanks for the advice on the sump removal, will give it a try.

[kevin powles]

Hi, Cylinder head removed today, all checked ok, no cracks, cylinder head grit blasted cleaned and primed ready for rebuild, all valves and gear in very good condition.

A couple of negative points : No thermostat in the housing, engine stuck because the two rear bores have had water in them over the years. fourth cylinder from the front had some gouges in the bores, I suspect the truck was parked up because of this 20 years ago, not sure what caused this, any ideas??.

Also the thermostatic valve built into the exhaust manifold has been welded shut and the manifold welded to the intake manifold, so basically the whole thermostatic valve has been disabled. Is this common?, perhaps a mod done to other trucks, Anyone come across this before?, I need to know before I start refurbishing both manifolds.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Kevin

I've inserted my thoughts in a different font as this seemed the most direct way to respond clearly to your questions.

"Hi, Cylinder head removed today, all checked ok, no cracks, cylinder head grit blasted cleaned and primed ready for rebuild, all valves and gear in very good condition." Depending on the condition of the valves and the seats I suspect that a complete valve job with new guides may be worth the effort in the long run but determine the condition of the rest of the engine first

"A couple of negative points : No thermostat in the housing," Not a big deal to get a new one, but might be and indication that the engine was running hot "engine stuck because the two rear bores have had water in them over the years." this damage might hone out "fourth cylinder from the front had some gouges in the bores," this one maybe more of a problem from the from the picture it looks like the gouge is curved at the top, is this toward the front or rear of the engine? If so it might be that a wrist-pin has gotten loose I suspect the truck was parked up because of this 20 years ago, not sure what caused this, any ideas??.

Also the thermostatic valve built into the exhaust manifold has been welded shut and the manifold welded to the intake manifold, so basically the whole thermostatic valve has been disabled. Is this common?, perhaps a mod done to other trucks, Anyone come across this before?, I need to know before I start refurbishing both manifolds. " First time I've heard of somebody welding one open, very common to find them stuck open. Not a real problem under most driving conditions, will tend to make the engine run rough when cold but the tight engine compartment on a CMP generally takes care of that.

Now as to the over all condition of the engine, you have not shown anything yet that would say the engine can not be rebuilt. Have you pulled the pan yet?

Cheers Phil

[Alex van de Wetering]

Kevin,

Good to see the project will get another chance! I agree with the others that it always brakes my heart to see previously restored trucks end up in a sad condition. I remember seeing an Austin K3(?) on HMVF, someones pride and joy about 30 years ago. When the original owner asked, it was soon discovered that the truck still existed, but it was now being used as a parts truck due to the sad condition it is in today.

I don't know if it helps, but a guy here in Holland is offering a Ford F60L cab frame, front clip and some other parts. Clip is pretty rusted, but frame seems to be good. Is it just a matter of removing the extra brace in the frame to convert Ford into Chev.....or is there more than meets the eye? And what about wheel wells on a 3 Ton truck compared with a 15cwt?

Alex

[kevin powles]

Hi Phil, Going to drop the pan tomorrow or thursday, I would like to change out the valves and seats but I dont want to brake the bank on engine parts. I think you are right about the piston pin causing the bore damage. I also want to turn this project round this spring/summer and have it on the road asap. The engine was overhauled in 1947 and has +40 thou on the main and big ends, bore is standard.

kev.