Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Helllo Bob,

That is an excellent question, and it was something I had worried about the whole time these things were under construction. Because of the chain of events as they transpired, I had no opportunity to test fit the old canvas.

If you recall, I had taken the curtains in for a quote, accepted the quote, had the guys remove the steel frame for me to 'clean-up', and then found that the two original frames were different. At that point I called a stop to any potential work on the canvas until I could make new frames. In order for this to happen I had to have the doors on the cab to test frame fit. I figured I might as well finish doors completely, which meant lots of work, and considerable delay. In that whole time, I was fully aware I would not have any chance to test the fit of the canvas itself (they were already cut off the frames before this).

For some reason I had felt it would be the design for the canvas tops to go a little slacker with door opening, but I was wrong entirely.

In order for the guys to make these tops, they required some measurements from me. That being, distance of canvas from front edge of the steel frame of the curtain to corner of the windscreen support frame. Also needed to know the spacing of the fasteners along the windscreen support front edge. In my usual style, I gave them very precise measurements because I didn't want the thing to look loose once fasteners were clipped into place. Oh boy! By now I should have realised nothing is precise on these vehicles, and allowed additional length to be sure, but I calculated what I though was the exact size then added a 1/2" for good measure. I'm very pleased I did too.

When the doors are opened, not only does the whole thing NOT loosen, it actually tightens up a little bit! Not enough to cause any problems or damage paint or canvas, but it can be felt if you push on the canvas before and after opening the doors.

Here's where serendipity stepped in on my side. You may remember I indicated the window support panel sits slightly too far forward at the top? As luck /gods would have it, that is the reason why the tightening of the canvas occurs to the extent that it does now. The window panel top needs to be moved to the rear approx 1-2cm for roof to fit properly, perhaps even a little more. I have worked out that once this has occured, the tightening of the canvas should not occur anywhere near the extent it does now. Bearing in mind that it is quite OK now, the whole scenario should be almost entirely resolved with roof on and the windscreen panel in the propper place.

Here's where you can learn from my mistakes. Always allow more than the 'minimum' when measuring anything like this on a CMP, and try to make sure you always have the opportunity to test fit anything before disassembling for repair. I should have known from the fitting of the doors some weeks ago, that NOTHING is precise in fit or construction. To attempt to make something so precise that it is at risk of failing is just asking for trouble. In this case I got away with it, but it could easily have gone the other way if I had, by pure chance, managed to have the windscreen support panel sitting in the correct position at time of measuring, or worse, if it had been sitting too far back. In that case the curtains would need to have the front strip cut off and a new bit added for extra length. Wouldn't that have looked great?

[Private_collector]

As usual, it was into town this morning, despite the rain & cold!
Did manage to find two suitable yellows at paint shop, so I can now touchup the paint chips on the bridge plate.
Cabin front signage 1.jpg Side curtains 6.jpg
Speaking of bridge plate, it's finished now. So is D ^ D markings on door tops.
Cabin front signage 2.jpg
All signage on cabin now completed, thank goodness. Apart from a thorough tidy of the workshop, that's the sum total of todays output.

I still have to finish the repair work on radiator air duct, after that its about time to return focus of attention back to chassis work.

Tomorrow I am on the road to retrieve some parts a couple of fellows are holding for me. Into Brisbane first and then up to Warwick way. From memory, it's a 8-10hr round trip from home, so don't expect to hear from me tomorrow, unless I show the bits I have brought back

[Euan McDonald]

Tony,
I have a few sets of side curtains and the ww2 set has a bit of freedem to allow the door to open.
Most blitz only need a LH side curtain as its only required to keep the driver mate happy.
Check out Keiths site for more pics.

http://www.oldcmp.net/canvas.html

Cant wait ot see engine in and running.

[Private_collector]

Euan,

Your photo shows one of the very few curtains I have seen which are made with the steel rod instead of the flat bar construction. I note there is also the triangle access flap like mine.

I suspect my originals would have had a bit more 'slack' in them too, but the need for them to be disassembled for examination of construction method has now reduced them to a pile of rags. Very old and stinky rags at that. Mind, the the canvas was in dreadful state, so I don't feel any remorse with not being able to keep them as they were.

The truly odd thing is that the rod frames were different to each other. One had the angle of windscreen slope, other was a simple rectangle. The rectangle one had a longer portion of canvas at front to accomodate the shorter frame, and still allow it to fit sloping windscreen. very strange!

I still have the frames around. They will be kept for "Justin"

[Private_collector]

Air duct 2.jpg Air duct 3.jpg Air duct 4.jpg
Didn't get a lot done yesterday. It was too cold to even put decent primer on the radiator air duct once I got the welding finished. Managed to put a light bit of etch primer, so long as I used the heat lamp to warm the panel before and after spraying.
Rotten window frame 1.jpg
Amongst the things I retrieved Sunday, were two window frames. They both looked to be two of the most inact I had seen..............that was until I pulled one apart and found it completely rotten inside. Still, they didn't cost me anything, and perhaps the other one will be better. If nothing else, it has shown me how to get the glass out without breaking it. Only the bottom portion was rusted badly so I may use these to make one good one from both (they are both passenger side).
Booster seals.jpg
Further items retrieved include (but not limited to): The 2 window frames, a good brake booster, repro reflectors x 4, Ford generator, some switch plates, brackets for side curtain bag (that hold the bag to cab rear, I think), V8 distributor caps, spark plug conduit tubes x2, Ford gearbox..................and last but not least............a new set of seals for the Ford vacuum brake booster. Not NOS, these were made in last couple of weeks by a company in Brisbane. They were not cheap, but very important to rebuilding the booster!

I left home at 0600hrs Sunday and got home again 1900hrs. Took my boys new car and put over 800km on the clock! He wasn't too upset about that, but didn't appreciate the dirty, oily, crud covered gearbox being carried in the boot . Andy, if you are reading this, the rags did the trick. Not one bit of oil on the floor carpet of the car, and I didn't scratch the bumper getting it back out.

While travelling one of the back roads 'en route', we 'discovered' an intact and very restorable Cab 11/12 in a paddock. Had intended to go back and call in there, but when we spoke about it to our host, he already knew the vehicle and it's not for sale! Apparently it's a fairly elderly gent that is going to restore it 'one day'.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

Here is what I did when for a replacement windscreen frame rebuild, this was on my Pat 12 but I've been picking up spare M series frames to eventually replace one of the Pat 13 frames. http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/C...Windscreen.htm

Cheers Phil

[Andy Cusworth]

That was a good result not getting any oil leak out in the boot ....... the downside could be a gearbox ran with no lubrication

On a seperate note, you are doing a superb craftsman's job mate