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  #1  
Old 13-06-12, 15:33
chris vickery's Avatar
chris vickery chris vickery is offline
3RD ECHELON WKSP
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Nipissing Ontario Canada
Posts: 2,974
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I recently had an electrical issue with my 1970 CDN3.
I had no RH turn sig front or back. As I dove into it further I ended up with no sigs at all. It turned out to be two issues working with each other, like an electrical gang fight...
What I discovered after indepth diagnostics was that
1) the RH front sig wire was going to ground because of old insulation (shorting)
2) the sigs problems began in the turn signal switch. A NOS replacement cured the problem. These use a solid state board that was cooked.
As much as electrical issues are a headache, if you start with the basic and work from there it is usually not too hard to pin point the issue.
Break it down to individual components and circuits. A multi check on bulbs for continuity to ensure operating condition. A check on the circuit from point A to point B for continuity. Check your switch for operation on the high and low to ground. Check for connections being the correct ones as previously mentioned. NOS or new components are often times defective right from new.
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3RD Echelon Wksp

1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC
1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army
1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR
1943 Converto Airborne Trailer
1983 M1009 CUCV
1957 Triumph TRW 500cc

RT-524, PRC-77s,
and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and.......

OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers
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  #2  
Old 18-06-12, 16:44
WayneR WayneR is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 40
Default Problem found

It turns out the number 18 wire has no continuity. I tried to by pass with a new wire but that didn't work either. Do I have to now change the entire wire harness or is there an easier fix?

Wayne
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1971 M38A1 CDN3
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  #3  
Old 19-06-12, 04:37
Casey B's Avatar
Casey B Casey B is offline
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Location: Burnaby BC
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search for the break in the wire..its probably pinched or it broke at a joint through the fire wall? shorted at the gromet? maybe the pin is off the end at the connector> keep testing with a shapt line teaser from one end till you do not get power...then you know where the break is...use an ohm meter or a bulb and a battery and just use one end of the circuit using the wire and follow the wire using a sharp in etc to go through the wires inulation to get the bulb to light when you have gone past a point where the bulb no longer lights...the break is there between where you last tested and the place before.
Hope that helps! Oh is the switch for the lights to the head light position? not just driving or black out light? position..the three handled switch? some times if you click that switch off and on a few times the comtacts clean off a little for a cureent to pass through. check the switch on the dash.
Good luck and let us know.
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  #4  
Old 19-06-12, 05:44
rob love rob love is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Posts: 7,613
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Wayne: Bypassing the wire should have worked *UNLESS* if the wire with no continuity had a ground, it may have damaged the contact in the hi-lo beam switch. Check for power coming from the switch at the "18" plug. If you have power there, then a jumper wire from there to #18 on your headlights should result in light unless your lo beams on the lights are burnt out.

Chris:
The description you give is typical of the results of a short to ground on any one of the turn signal wires. The first symptom will be that the indicator light will not flash when you are signaling a turn, but rather will stay on steady. If caught early, the solid state flasher can be saved, but if left for a while it will be fatal to the flasher. I have also seen points in the control arm burnt as well. There was a modification on the M151A2 family to prevent some of this: an inline fuse was installed in the main power wire into the turn signals.
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