Lighting Help

[Casey B]

search for the break in the wire..its probably pinched or it broke at a joint through the fire wall? shorted at the gromet? maybe the pin is off the end at the connector> keep testing with a shapt line teaser from one end till you do not get power...then you know where the break is...use an ohm meter or a bulb and a battery and just use one end of the circuit using the wire and follow the wire using a sharp in etc to go through the wires inulation to get the bulb to light when you have gone past a point where the bulb no longer lights...the break is there between where you last tested and the place before.
Hope that helps! Oh is the switch for the lights to the head light position? not just driving or black out light? position..the three handled switch? some times if you click that switch off and on a few times the comtacts clean off a little for a cureent to pass through. check the switch on the dash.
Good luck and let us know.

[rob love]

Wayne: Bypassing the wire should have worked *UNLESS* if the wire with no continuity had a ground, it may have damaged the contact in the hi-lo beam switch. Check for power coming from the switch at the "18" plug. If you have power there, then a jumper wire from there to #18 on your headlights should result in light unless your lo beams on the lights are burnt out.

Chris:
The description you give is typical of the results of a short to ground on any one of the turn signal wires. The first symptom will be that the indicator light will not flash when you are signaling a turn, but rather will stay on steady. If caught early, the solid state flasher can be saved, but if left for a while it will be fatal to the flasher. I have also seen points in the control arm burnt as well. There was a modification on the M151A2 family to prevent some of this: an inline fuse was installed in the main power wire into the turn signals.