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#1
05-07-12, 14:55
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Personally I'd sooner rely on a military spec blitz pump than a Taiwanese plastic one! Unlike electric pumps which can always burn out, they're extremely simple and robust. I doubt you could break one, even if you over-revved it. They can sound a bit rattly though, so you may want to rebush the conrod if it's a bit sloppy. You can even rebore the cylinder if necessary, I have some NOS pistons and piston pins, 20 thou oversize. Let me know if you need one and I'll stick it in the post. I haven't looked for new rings yet but they shouldn't be too hard to source. I'll start with motor mower shops! The only criticism I've heard of these pumps is that they can empty the oil out of your gearbox. I don't really see how, unless perhaps they pressurize the gearbox somehow, eg. excessive blowby past badly worn rings. Like anything on a blitz, I take the view that if it's in good condition, it won't give trouble. Like I say, "proven in war". Not to mention sawmills! I agree however that we do need 12V to run various accessories occasionally. But rather than convert the whole vehicle permanently to 12V, you can run the accessories off a converter, like the one in the pic below. More info here: http://community.pressenter.net/~cmeyer/MES612PG6A.html These gadgets only put out 6 amps, but if you need more you can easily hide a 12V battery somewhere, like in the tool box as you say. The converter will keep it charged as you drive. You can even run your electronic ignition off it, and probably get a few hours of 12 volt headlight use as well. If you want indefinite headlight use, just fit two converters! That will give you 144 watts of power without draining the battery. You can also use the 12V battery as an emergency back up for starting the motor. You may need an isolation switch in the 6V charging circuit, so you don't burn out the genny and/or voltage regulator. And possibly an auxiliary 12V solenoid, just to be fully confident. To me that's preferable to converting the whole vehicle permanently to 12V. In effect, you have a dual voltage blitz, and you avoid having to: a) rewind the genny armature and field coils and replace the voltage regulator, OR fit an alternator and figure out how to run a belt to it and relocate the twin-belt fan pulley and find suitable length belts to fit; and b) recalibrate all your gauges. I believe the gauges do have to be recalibrated individually, because they all draw different currents, and the currents are all variable. Unlike a light globe which draws a constant current, you can't simply stick a resistor in series, you need a voltage regulator as well. I'm not sure it's something an auto elec normally does, I think it's more a specialist job for an instrument maker. I think they generally pull the gauge apart and solder an appropriate resistor in series, and a little solid state voltage regulator as well. There may be ways of doing it externally but it's still a specialist job. That is, if you want your instruments to read correctly and not burn out! Others may have better advice than me on the pros and cons of 12V conversion, since I've never actually done it myself. I see it as something to avoid if possible. One thing I particularly like about 6V is the sound of a flathead cranking over on the starter. To me it's part of the charm of an old vehicle. With 12V they spin too fast, which makes them sound just like a modern car.
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. 
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#2
05-07-12, 15:21
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instruments
From memory Ford use a bimetal arm and contact points in their gauges .. Fuel Oil Temp. The Ammeter measures Amps, not Volts, it doesn't need changing , it will work fine on either 6 or 12 V systems .
With the points closed current would heat up the bimetal arm , it would then bend and alter the points gap thus affecting current flow . There are points at each end ie the sender unit and the dash gauge itself . Fitting a 6 Volt regulator to power the instruments is cheap and simple .... most electronic shops will sell one for less than 5 bucks , you need to mount them on a heat sink and use caps to filter any spikes . The TO3 case can handle 5 amps I think ... http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/article.php?id=040 This is a well written article ... step by step . Print it out and take it to any electronics shop to buy the components .. solder it together and away you go ...cheap as chips MIKE
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad Last edited by Mike K; 05-07-12 at 15:30.
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#3
05-07-12, 19:22
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I'm still not sure I see the point of the exercise though. The gauges work perfectly well on 6V, just like everything else on a blitz, except the headlights. Is it really worth doing all this work on the gauge circuits, plus fitting an alternator and a separate belt system to drive it, just to have brighter headlights? Wouldn't it be simpler to just stick in a couple of 60W halogen globes? That's more than enough headlight power for something that never gets over 45 mph. Besides, how many owners drive their CMPs at night anyway? Likewise for occasional accessories, there's no need to go to all this trouble. You can either carry a 12V battery, charged through a converter, or carry a spare 6V battery, charged by the genny, and hook it up in series when you want to run 12V accessories. I'll probably go the latter route, just to have a spare battery on hand. I can understand objections to 6V amongst hotrodders, who need 12V to crank over their high comp flatheads, and run their high performance ignition systems, but none of this applies for blitz owners. Unless of course you're building a blitz hotrod! Come to think of it, not such a bad idea! I'm picturing blitz drags down the main street of Corowa...
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters.
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#4
05-07-12, 22:22
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Passionate debate
I knew it! I knew it!
I was afraid the 12v VS 6v debate would cause a reaction. How about if I keep an open mind for now? There is still a long time until I must address this in a permanent way. 
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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#5
06-07-12, 10:15
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Fortunately these debates generally aren't entirely fruitless, in this case Mike's article about gauge conversion is a particularly useful resource I reckon.
__________________
One of the original Australian CMP hunters.
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#6
06-07-12, 08:23
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Regards Rick.
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1916 Albion A10 1942 White Scoutcar 1940 Chev Staff Car 1940 F30S Cab11 1940 Chev WA LRDG "Te Hai" 1941 F60L Cab12 1943 Ford Lynx 1942 Bren Gun Carrier VR no.2250 Humber FV1601A Saracen Mk1(?) 25pdr. 1940 Weir No.266 25pdr. Australian Short No.185 (?) KVE Member.
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#7
06-07-12, 09:58
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Jet blitz
That was one of the scariest contraptions I've ever seen... but it made for great video which can be seen on the Year of DVD. I remember him saying it was nice and smooth until you backed off the power and it wanted to go all over the place. Poor thing was a F15 with a Holden front end.
The most controversial bit was when he fired it up in the carpark at night. His other vehicle was a similarly modified motorcycle. As a friend commented: "I wouldn't like to be riding with a time expired Rolls-Royce Viper between my legs when it started throwing turbine blades." Quote:
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern
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#8
06-07-12, 10:31
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I don't think we have to worry too much about blitz hotrods though, a 4 ton hotrod is something of a contradiction.
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters.
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#9
06-07-12, 10:47
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Contradiction?
Not one with 2,700 pounds of thrust at 13,800 RPM PLUS a home made afterburner~
Quote:
__________________
Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern
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#10
07-07-12, 14:47
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Jet Blitz
I recall someone saying he was not far from where I am.
His name is Ron Laycock, if I remember correctly. http://www.flickr.com/photos/gocatters/4445705485/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-hEyybOUsw
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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