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#1
05-07-12, 19:22
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I'm still not sure I see the point of the exercise though. The gauges work perfectly well on 6V, just like everything else on a blitz, except the headlights. Is it really worth doing all this work on the gauge circuits, plus fitting an alternator and a separate belt system to drive it, just to have brighter headlights? Wouldn't it be simpler to just stick in a couple of 60W halogen globes? That's more than enough headlight power for something that never gets over 45 mph. Besides, how many owners drive their CMPs at night anyway? Likewise for occasional accessories, there's no need to go to all this trouble. You can either carry a 12V battery, charged through a converter, or carry a spare 6V battery, charged by the genny, and hook it up in series when you want to run 12V accessories. I'll probably go the latter route, just to have a spare battery on hand. I can understand objections to 6V amongst hotrodders, who need 12V to crank over their high comp flatheads, and run their high performance ignition systems, but none of this applies for blitz owners. Unless of course you're building a blitz hotrod! Come to think of it, not such a bad idea! I'm picturing blitz drags down the main street of Corowa...
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. 
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#2
05-07-12, 22:22
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Passionate debate
I knew it! I knew it!
I was afraid the 12v VS 6v debate would cause a reaction. How about if I keep an open mind for now? There is still a long time until I must address this in a permanent way. 
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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#3
06-07-12, 10:15
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Quote:
Fortunately these debates generally aren't entirely fruitless, in this case Mike's article about gauge conversion is a particularly useful resource I reckon.
__________________
One of the original Australian CMP hunters.
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#4
06-07-12, 08:23
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Regards Rick.
__________________
1916 Albion A10 1942 White Scoutcar 1940 Chev Staff Car 1940 F30S Cab11 1940 Chev WA LRDG "Te Hai" 1941 F60L Cab12 1943 Ford Lynx 1942 Bren Gun Carrier VR no.2250 Humber FV1601A Saracen Mk1(?) 25pdr. 1940 Weir No.266 25pdr. Australian Short No.185 (?) KVE Member.
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#5
06-07-12, 09:58
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Jet blitz
That was one of the scariest contraptions I've ever seen... but it made for great video which can be seen on the Year of DVD. I remember him saying it was nice and smooth until you backed off the power and it wanted to go all over the place. Poor thing was a F15 with a Holden front end.
The most controversial bit was when he fired it up in the carpark at night. His other vehicle was a similarly modified motorcycle. As a friend commented: "I wouldn't like to be riding with a time expired Rolls-Royce Viper between my legs when it started throwing turbine blades." Quote:
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Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern
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#6
06-07-12, 10:31
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I don't think we have to worry too much about blitz hotrods though, a 4 ton hotrod is something of a contradiction.
__________________
One of the original Australian CMP hunters.
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#7
06-07-12, 10:47
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Contradiction?
Not one with 2,700 pounds of thrust at 13,800 RPM PLUS a home made afterburner~
Quote:
__________________
Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern
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#8
07-07-12, 14:47
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Jet Blitz
I recall someone saying he was not far from where I am.
His name is Ron Laycock, if I remember correctly. http://www.flickr.com/photos/gocatters/4445705485/ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-hEyybOUsw
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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#9
08-07-12, 12:46
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Chassis work
Still working on the chassis. Nothing worthy of photographing today. All photos shown now are old ones.
I Removed the front cross member....carefully, and made the 'new' one ready to go on. rear chassis box 3.jpg rear chassis box 1.jpg Then tidied one of the chassis rails at the very back , where previous owner/s had done some bodgy work by modifying the rear 14in of each rail.............by turning them into a fully enclosed bux section for that length. Couldn't tell you why. I'm absolutely stumped. Why would someone vandalise a perfectly good truck chassis by doing this to it! It took several hours of very careful, almost surgical grinding (contradiction of terms?) to undo all that shanagans! Next weekend I buy another bunch of cutting & grinding wheels, and do the other side. Better buy a set of ear muffs too. I presently have a ringing in the ears that resembles the old ABC TV test panel. The sound that was left when they switched off transmission late at night. Ah, the good old days! rear chassis box 2.jpg The pointless mod included adding a piece of steel plate on outside of each rail, at rear. This piece of plate extends roughly 12in, and is brought to a taper towards the front of the piece. In fact the taper looks like a boats bow. I would understand doing this if there was some diabolical damage to the rails that needed drastic work to repair, but far from damaged, the rails are PERFECT. At least at that part anyway. There is some VERY minor repair work needed to the passenger side rail, where there is a crack on the underside, eminating from a bolt hole. This had already been 'fixed' but I will grind the weld out of the area and the engineers will fix this properly! As a parting gesture, nearly a gallon of degreaser was sprayed on the front 3/4 of the chassis, in several applications, with a hearty water blasting between the coats. Now very little grime buildup anywhere on the chassis. The sandblaster (Shane) will be very greatful for this, as will I, because the more I get off, the better the blasting job will be. You don't make a friend if you send something for blasting coated in excess (or any) grease, oil, rust scale or caked on and time hardened dirt. They won't put in the extra hours needed to remove this with the grit, so you will get the part back beautifully primed.........  ............with the gunk still in places that were too hard to reach thoroughly. Alternatively, you will get an immaculate part back, with a $$$ bill that would send you broke in one foul swoop!  
__________________
Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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#10
08-07-12, 17:43
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It's only a wild guess, but maybe the original F60L chassis got bent like my old one (see pics) so they chopped it off at that point and butt welded a new length of channel on, then reinforced it with plate on the inside (making it box section) and welded a "band aid" patch over the join on the outside. Then, at some later date, a subsequent owner chopped it off at the join and shortened the wheelbase. I'm told the tapered "band aid" patch is the correct way to reinforce a join, because it distributes the stresses more evenly. The RAAF used a boat shaped band aid patch on their lengthened F60L chassis. That's about the only explanation I can think of for there being reinforcement on both the outside and the inside. Whatever the case, they've certainly made a lot of extra work for you!
__________________
One of the original Australian CMP hunters.
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