Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Tony

As always you are bring up and interesting issue, this time frame repair, lengthening and strengthening.

On my 1942 Pattern 13 C60S I needed to add 24" to the rear of the frame so that I could put the radio box on and have it fully supported. What I did as the tails of the frame are not tapered was to have the extensions pieces bent up out of 1/4 steel at a local steel fabrication shop to match the existing frame along with them I had two rails bent up which are a drive fit to go inside the truck frame and the extensions. Then I drilled the extensions to take the trailer hitch etc. to match original frame then I drilled the other end of the new inner rails to match all the old holes in the end of the frame. When bolted in place and painted the extension is hard to detect. No welding so the frame can be restored to original length easily.

On my 1941 Patter 12 C60L I was faced with a different problem rust had caused the inner frame to buckle plus rust damage. Though I supplied the fabrication with detailed drawings of what I wanted them to bend up out of 1/4 steel they didn't understand that the bends were all outside of bend to outside of bend hence the new rails end up being 1/4 inch off. (Yes if they really bent them inside of bend to inside of bend the frame should have 1/2 off.) Any way the solution actually turned out even better the put the frame rails back in the sheer and cut them lengthwise at a slight angle. This allowed two halfs to put inside the truck frame each a little off set then with the portapower drove one of the new pieces so that it was wedged very tightly inside the main frame. After line boring all of the old rivet holes sized for a drive fit of new grade 8 bolts bolted the entire frame back together. Then turned up the heat on the mig welder and welded the joint seam on the new inside frame. Frame seems to be staying tight in straight after several years of hard use.

My point is that it is some time easier and results in a stronger frame repair to have new metal bent to the required sizes as it is to try to find replacement parts. There seem to be more willing donor vehicles out your way. For me I must rely on the kindness of friends up in Canada to find me bits of CMP which are needed.

Of course sometimes I wonder what will the lads 60 years from now who are working on our trucks think, will they be able to figure out what is a 60 year old repair vs. 120 year old original design. But hopefully thanks to things like MLU the knowledge base of CMPs will be stronger. Just as it stronger now than it was 30 years ago.

Cheers Phil

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

There seem to be more willing donor vehicles out your way. For me I must rely on the kindness of friends up in Canada to find me bits of CMP which are needed.

Yes, you're definitely CMP deprived in the US Phil! I'm not sure how many were shipped down under but it must have been in the tens of thousands I would guess. Fortunately a good percentage have survived in one form or another, thanks mainly to their durability in various civilian roles over the decades. It's only in quite recent times they've attracted interest amongst MV collectors.

The chassis repairs you describe are good examples to follow I think. As you suggest, there's no need for welding if the components are securely bolted together. After all, the pintle hook itself is entirely bolted on.

I enjoyed the serendipity in your misunderstood channel specs! The resulting "expandable channel" solution was rather clever I thought. I may even pinch the idea for my FGT chassis repair! Alternatively, I may leave a gap between the two pieces so I can run welds along the edges, directly onto the inside face of the chassis rail. I'm also considering replacing the spring hanger rivets with longer ones and running them through the reinforcement piece. Whatever I finish up doing it needs to be strong enough to withstand lateral forces generated by the winch cable. I like your 1/4" channel - very beefy!

Just for fun I've included some pics of a nearby CMP boneyard with some of the "willing donor vehicles" you mention. I daresay this pile would have come in handy for your chassis extension. I'll leave you to identify the eclectic mix of parts!

Cheers,
Tony

[Private_collector]

Battery Box old 1.jpg Battery Box old 2.jpg
Started on making a new battery box this weekend. Original frame is in extremely poor condition and cannot be used for anything more than a template.
Battery Box template 1.jpg Battery Box template 2.jpg
Template made and checked for accuracy.
Battery Hold Down Bolts 1.jpg
The battery hold down bolts are in good condition, and can be reused. I will need to find one more of the brass wing-nuts shown in this photo.

[Private_collector]

Had a bit of time on my hands Sunday. Power company were working on the network, so no mains power for virtually all day and I had to stay on solar power. The solar is fine for virtually all week (stand alone system) but with no alternative yesterday, I was restricted to nothing more draining than a small angle grinder.
Front Axle Bump Block Old.jpg
With that in mind, I turned my attention to the front axle bumpers. The originals are not salvagable and must be replaced.
Front Axle Bump Blocks 1.jpg
Many months ago, I bought two new rubber bumpers, that only needed to have the rebate cut into one side to accomodate the shape of the brackets. Very simple job and very quick to do.
Front Axle Bump Blocks 2.jpg
The cleaning of the bolts & associated hardware was more time consuming. Normally would use the blasting cabinet to clean something like these, but not able to this time.

[Private_collector]

Finished all the chassis prep work yesterday and it will be off for sandblasting & repairs today, so long as I can hire a trailer this morning.

Wouldn't think there would be a great demand for car carrier trailer on a Monday. In contradiction to Saturday, when I went looking for quotes and to take measurements to check fit. Not that the length would be a problem, it's that some trailers have ramps that lift up rather than slide under the deck. The lift kind wouldn't be of any use to me.

[Private_collector]

Battery box new 2.jpg Battery box new 1.jpg
Work continues on battery box. Bought the mild steel plate this afternoon and got home with enough time to cut this from the template I have. Was initially going to mark the shape only, and get the steel place in town to do the cutting, but it looked so easy to do, and I couldn't help myself. Hopefully the steel shop can do the folding for me tomorrow.
2HF.jpg
Next, thoughts turn to where to get a period looking Ford battery. Macsauto have them in USA, but they cannot be exported out.
!BcWKNY!Bmk~$(KGrHqYH-E!Equ2N-9,lBK0JG+Dg4!~~_12.jpg !BcUlD-QBmk~$(KGrHqEH-DcEq)OO+!TqBKz-gUzu6Q~~_12.jpg
I have seen this sneaky little system, that gives a slightly improved look over modern batteries, but still nowhere near what I desire.

Now trying to locate an original battery that I can 'gut' and make a mould of. Then reproduce it in fibreglass, for a modern battery to sit inside of. Don't see why that wouldn't work. The terminals could be 'relocated' to old positions on the cover and remain in modern location inside on the real battery.

Chassis is now delivered for blasting etc...

[Bob McNeill]

Tony IF you can find an old case it can be rebuilt, I,ve had my 6 volt rebuilt twice now by Pope Batteries in Blacktown NSW with a ten year period between, they even supplied the GMH sign to go on outside.for less than $120 who could ask for better. Try a slight smear of Stickky flex on the top of current unit to give rubber look. Fibreglass cover will reduce size and you need all the plates available. VW 6 volt battery is taller than most and won,t foul on cmp. under floor mount requires checking on early cars. I for one will not deduct points for having " modern " battery, along with tires it,s a safety issue.