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#1
28-08-12, 23:34
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Hi, Thanks for the advice guys, I think I will go with oversize shoes, the drums themselves have a perfect finish and run true, I will get some shoes made and then run them in with the track off and brake on, I done this on the tank hunter and it bedded the brakes in well. I think the drums have been turned out so just that inner chamfer had been lost. Some previous log puller had modified the expanders to get more travel, I think i mentioned this before in another thread.
cheers kev.
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2pdr Tank Hunter Universal Carrier 1942 registered 11/11/2008. 3" Mortar Universal Carrier 1943 registered 06/06/2009. 1941 Standard Mk1 stowage Carrier, Caunter camo. 1941 Standard Mk1 stowage Carrier, light stone. 10 cwt wartime mortar trailer. 1943 Mk2 Daimler Dingo. 1943 Willys MB. 1936 Vickers MG carrier No1 Mk1 CMM 985. 
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#2
28-08-12, 23:46
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Quote:
Get your local motor factor to do the job, let them measure the drums and get the shoes relined thicker then profiled to fit. Remember the modern lining material is unlike the old asbestos, and will not bed in half as quick. In fact it does the opposite my hardening if you try to do it too quick.
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Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor
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#3
29-08-12, 00:52
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I will second Richard's advice, and add to it that why would you have nice clean drums, nice clean shoes, and then subject them to the excess heat trying to set them in. Bring the hub and drum in with your shoes and let them either shim the linings if they are going with rivets, or else install thicker lining material and grind it to match the radius.
As a mechanic, I use to spend a lot of time removing the glaze from brake shoes. Why would you want to restore a vehicle and start off with the problem before you even get it out of the shop?
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#4
29-08-12, 02:59
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The brake drum by itself is likely the same as a civilian 3 ton or such used with the sprocket holder welded on to it. It might be worth finding out for sure. That sprocket holder would be easy to transfer to another drum.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#5
29-08-12, 03:12
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carrier break drums
I am glad that CLETRAC mentioned going to the modified civi side. Mr. Ford reused and reused. There has got to be a compliment out there somewhere.
Bob
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#6
29-08-12, 04:58
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The part that the sprocket bolts onto is welded to the drum. This makes it different to any truck setup but the basic drum is likely off a three ton. I'd guess three ton because they used the heavier brakes.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#7
29-08-12, 08:18
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The drum is carrier specific, and the mounting surface for the sprocket is part of the drum casting. Michael, I think that is correct. BTW, I am not sure of this, but I think the "BB" part numbers are of British origin.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions....
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