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#1
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Ralph
Do you mean the knob part that you'd pull out away from the brass fitting? If so I think it is righty tighty, lefty loosey. When I took apart mine I used a bit of heat then discovered the remains of a tiny cotter pin that went through the base of the knob and through the pin. Once I punched it out they unscrewed. I also bought NOS pins from Brian Asbury to replace my rusted out ones. I found water must have gotten into the brass fittings and rusted the springs and parts of the shafts. Not sure if Brian still has them though
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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#2
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Yes Jorden The knurled flat knob that you pull out on the brass fitting.
The original I am using for a template has been well stored and I have cleaned it and remved the cotter pin with no difficuly! It isnt my piece, (Thanks Ross!) so I am being VERY carefull! I will try a it of heat then.
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Ralph Volkert UC 2Mk I* Upper Hull: CB 8075 Lower Hull: 8105 S/N: 9075 Date: Jun(est) 42 contract #: CDLV 213 1946 Willys Jeep 1974 Plymouth Road Runner 1987 Trans Am |
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#3
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Ok good. One other thing I just remembered was that there is a pin that goes through the plunger to hold the spring down. I think if you pull on the knob and turn it so it moves the shaft. That will allow the pin to go into the slots of the brass fitting. Once it's in there keep the tension on it and then unscrew the knob from the plunger. Just watch that the plunger doesn't go flying out the bottom of the brass piece once the knob is unscrewed.
Hopefully this all makes sense.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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