Wanted: Dodge wc52 canadian exhaust manifold

[Frank v R]

Hi David , do not bother with national moparts , they carry mutch newer stuff and do not handle truck parts , you need to look for a Canadian M-series Dodge , uses same manifold , the T-236 and 255 are the same length, and use the same manifold, also give Vintage Power Wagons a try , they have had the manifold you seek in the past , or find someone on this forum that has a CDN m-series dodge manifold for sale

[Bob Carriere]

....should be used manifolds kicking around........... and cheaper than dealers.

Mind you none will be within reach in Italy.

Frank....correct me if I am wrong..... but the Canadian longer engine block includes the Industrial 237 cu. in. the 251 from the M series and even the industrial 265 used in agricultural equipment ....so the intake/exhaust should all fit.....except the outlet of the exhaust manifold on certain model may be located centered or sligthly to the back..... I remember having to change the exhaust manifold on a civilain 251 that would not line up on a M37.

If David could show us a picture of the manifold we could probably sort one out. In fact I may have some spares I could part with... I may have an actual 237 manifold in the barn...... shipping a cast iron manifold to Italy migth cost more than it is worth.

Bob C.

[Bob Carriere]

According to Vintage Power Wagon the engine size....237 and 251 is the same length...... so assuming David's WC is a Canadian block we are on the right page..... they do not seem to have any in stock..... they are usually more focused on the USA 230 model with some Canadian M 37 251.


M37 manifolds should be relatively easy to find..... only one listed on Ebay at the moment for $26...... shipping continental US $27..... and the heat riaser is missing.

Since Chrysler industrial engines were used in irrigation pumps, fork lift trucks air compressors, etc. they may exist on the Continent near David wine infested region.... maybe we can trade for Tuscany wine..... the good stuff.

Bob C ........... hic !!!!

[chris vickery]

The trick is to find one that is not broken or damages.
Too often than not, guys overtightened them or did away with the special brass cone nuts.
The manifolds have a tendency to warp. When I did my M37, I actuall mated up my intake and exhaust manifold and had them put on a milling machine to place them true and flat to each other. This was after having them rewelded as a couple of the ears were broekn off due to the above mentioned situation.

[Frank v R]

I agree with Chris 110% , always take a straight edge to get the 2 manifolds as close to true as possible , that also means using a feeler gauge and then if it needs it have them machined togther after they have been assembled , if you do not follow this procedure there is a very good chance that you will break it ,
Frank

[chris vickery]

If I recall correctly, I think Dad tok at least .125" off to true mine up. This was overall because on the first couple swipes there were still low spots. Trying to tighten down warped manifolds on dense gaskets is a sure way to break them. The gaskets do not give much.

[BCA]

The best solution is to try to find a correct APT manifold (for the "long block"). Unfortunately the APT parts book only lists a part number for the intake and exhaust manifold assembly. So one has to check their old manifold for the casting number for both the intake and exhaust manifold: the only reliable way to source these parts.
Generally, commercial long block manifolds are at best a bad compromise: commercial versions don't have 3 ports for the primer pump nozzles on the intake manifold, they generally have a carburator flange that is too high to accomodate the APT carb and they have odd-ball 4-bolt outlet flanges at the wrong loaction.
Maybe somebody has a loose APT manifold to check the casting numbers: unfortunately the casting on the exhaust portion is on the lower side and almost impossible to see when the manifold is on the truck.
........ Brian