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#1
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I agree with Chris 110% , always take a straight edge to get the 2 manifolds as close to true as possible , that also means using a feeler gauge and then if it needs it have them machined togther after they have been assembled , if you do not follow this procedure there is a very good chance that you will break it ,
Frank |
#2
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If I recall correctly, I think Dad tok at least .125" off to true mine up. This was overall because on the first couple swipes there were still low spots. Trying to tighten down warped manifolds on dense gaskets is a sure way to break them. The gaskets do not give much.
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
#3
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The best solution is to try to find a correct APT manifold (for the "long block"). Unfortunately the APT parts book only lists a part number for the intake and exhaust manifold assembly. So one has to check their old manifold for the casting number for both the intake and exhaust manifold: the only reliable way to source these parts.
Generally, commercial long block manifolds are at best a bad compromise: commercial versions don't have 3 ports for the primer pump nozzles on the intake manifold, they generally have a carburator flange that is too high to accomodate the APT carb and they have odd-ball 4-bolt outlet flanges at the wrong loaction. Maybe somebody has a loose APT manifold to check the casting numbers: unfortunately the casting on the exhaust portion is on the lower side and almost impossible to see when the manifold is on the truck. ........ Brian |
#4
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...... UPS estimate is $250 to ship to Italy....... sortta cools things up.....
Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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