Wanted: wheel clamping bolts and nuts

[Grant Bowker]

Harry is right, you may be able to get a complete wheel that is part rotted from ground contact for a very reasonable price since it isn't a safe wheel anymore and get most of the studs from it. Remember Bob Carriere's first law of CMPs "You can't resore one without another for parts (unless you want to spend an awful amount to do it)".
Another source is Dirk at LWD parts (listed at 5 Euros each...)

[Corey Myronuk]

i think even with shipping at 5€ each id still be winning with dirk.all of my studs are welded in on the back side so id be doubtfull of re using a recovered stud.think ill search for a local source for 7/8 unf hi tensile stud as a backup.thanks guys.

[Grant Bowker]

If the rim is already rotted to the point of being garbage, there is no harm in cutting a chunk of the rim out with the stud and then cleaning up the back end of the stud. If you are doing this, consider running a die down the stud before you take it out of the rim so it is secured while you are rethreading it. You would be welding on the back of the rim so probably not messing the thread but some anti spatter might be a good precaution.

However you decide to go for the repacement stud, take the time to do a nice job on taking out the old one so the new one sits square. You might want to put the two halves of the rim together and use a nut on the stud to hold it all in place and tight while you weld. I've worked some rims with studs that were off square and they were a nuisance.

[hrpearce]

Try Ross Prince I got mine from him.

[Corey Myronuk]

Yes running a die down them before removal is a great idea.thanks Grant.
The clamp bolts on dirks site arnt the right ones..i think they are for the 16" wheel.I have 20"
How do i get in touch with Ross Prince?

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Corey

The studs/nuts that holds the two halves of the rims together are 7/8 BSF and very difficult to find unless you are lucky and find some NOS ones like the ones Dirk has brand smacking new.

I did obtain a die and tap set form the UK on Ebay at least now we can clean the threads on the rims we have. But from my experience the studs from the 16 and 20 inch rims are all the same.

At over $6 a nut and about $8 for the stud (times 8) plus shipping finding a good spare rim for $50 to $75 dollars might be cheaper.

At the going price a spare CMP rolling chassis can be a good deal.

Bob

[Corey Myronuk]

Hi Bob..Yes that's what i figured..The bolts on Dirks site are a different length and have a different head than the ones i have.Mine have a mushroom head where Dirks are flat like a countersunk screw.
Ive contacted Fastenal here in Langley,they've been great with prices and finding me specialty stuff and my contact is going to get back to me with a price on a custom run of 40 -7/8"-11x3" hex head hi tensile screws (less than 1/4"shank)
What i cant remember,because i haven't dug out the wheel i removed the studs from is if there is a chamfer under the head of the stud or if its just a plain hole with the cone nut on the outer side.
I asked for the extra length because i want to try and run a wider tire and may need a little more to pull the halves together.
If the price isnt out of this world i'll ask about the correct lengths and nuts.
I just wish i had 1 undamaged one to take them as an example.
maybe i'll have to have an episode of die grinder brain surgery...
Will keep you all posted.