CMP restoration tools

[Private_collector]

Bearing cup installer.
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Adjust the threaded rod to the start length, then turn the handle to wind the cup or seal into place. I have made two sizes of drivers. These were used effectively on rear hub bearing cups and the seals in axle tubes. Thats why the extra long threaded rod.

These photos were taken before I welded all the pieces together.
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Endless variations on the theme are possible. Not sure if I stole this idea from the manual or just had a vision

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jacques

I really like that one, makes a huge amount of sense for the flat head design. Now some of the manual comments about standing the engine on end to remove the pistons make real senses.

Sure provides the best access to the different parts of the flat head.

This must be the type of unit Ford intended.

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jacques

I liked your lateral axis rotisserie so much this morning I went out and made up the attachment plates, thanks for the tip about the off set.

Cheers Phil

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Phil,

Glad to help. As I mentioned before, I cringe when I see early Flatheads being held only by the bellhousing in an engine holder.

Wish there was a way to get it through to all the Ebayers out there cleaning out Pop's shed of Flatheads.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Thought I would add another bit of info that worked for me.

As I don't own a truck, and hiring a large tandem trailer to take a F15A chassis to the sandblaster was going to be quite costly I looked at using a boat trailer to do the job.
The chassis is surprisingly quite light, and in fact probably less than a fully rigged 14' fishing boat and motor so weight is not a problem- just length.

Found a rough and ready one in the "Trading Post" for $120. Good enough for what I wanted. Made up a few wooden chocks to keep it in place for the 40 km round trip and secured the chassis to the trailer with threaded 5/16" rods. Prior to the sandblaster I also use it to take the chassis to a welder to have a few extraneous holes welded shut where a two speed xfer case had been fitted.
The welder had it overnight and the sandblaster had it for three days so you can imagine the cost on hired equipment if hired for 4 days.

After I finished with it a few weeks later I tidied it up a bit, put it back on the Trading Post, and got my money back with a little bit of change.

This also keeps clutter down when you live in a normal suburban home as I do and keeps wives and neighbors happy.

Cheers,

Cheers,

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jacques

Really good solution to moving the frame around, great that you were able to buy trailer it use it and sell it and come out ahead.

Now as "This also keeps clutter down when you live in a normal suburban home as I do and keeps wives and neighbors happy." Got a real kick out of that, living out in the sticks the only way the neighbors see my Beasts is they have a helicopter, but keeping the neighbors happy is important.

Usually is solved by offering to pull them out of the mud or ditch etc. then they don't think the old military trucks are so odd.

Cheers Phil

[maple_leaf_eh]

There is a certain sanity in simple organization. I don't have a garage or secure work area, so nothing can stay outdoors.

Tonight I was repair something non-truck. I started out with the anticipated tools and supplies, then decision by decision, brought out more and more tools and supplies. As I worked, scrap bits, wrappings and tools were either returned to their proper holders or thrown into a single container. Sometimes I used a 2' diameter garden pail with rope handles or a folding top tote box, or tonight it was the big box the new parts came in.

After the job was finished and the work tested, everything came back indoors. (Wet snow and drizzle forecasted throughout the next week.) Before bed I will put everything in its place. It seems like taking twice as much time for each job, but at least I OUGHT to be able to start the next job without searching for lost tools or supplies.