C8 progress in Texas

[David DeWeese]

Hi Bob,
Little off with the particulars, but close....
http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/14125/10002/-1
Thanks, David

[Private_collector]

David,

That insulation stuff looks a lot like the material I used, except mine was adhesive on one side. Very unforgiving with installation, if it touches in the wrong place.

Wonder if I can get enough to line my sons room walls with, to screen out all the CRAP music.

[Ganmain Tony]

Since I dropped a rebuilt radiator in my old beast the engine covers have got much hotter.

I used a product that was silver on one side and that black sticky stuff on the other to replace the asbestos. I'm not convinced its working as well as it should.

I'm really keen to see how that material you're using goes David - might get some myself..

[Phil Waterman]

Hi

How do you plan to attach the insulation? Glue or wire staple like the original asbestos sheet, or a combination of the two?

I used wire staples made out of mig welding wire, bent to fit the original little holes then bent over and snipped off on the engine compartment side of the panels.

I'm also really interested in how the Jegs Insulation works, please keep us posted.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

I am still debating what to use.

Some of the Eastwood house brand has been given bad reviews for just melting and dripping tar off vehicle from the southern States.

some of the specs for other mats are given at 14F to 140F....... well it get a lot colder than that around here and I am sure the inside of a cab 11 engine compartment at a 3 mph parade gets a lot hotter than 140F.

Asbestos is out....period. Some of the synthetic such as ceramic cloth used in the auto glass industry in the 1980 is now banned like asbestos. some material is too rigid others will absorb water and or petroleum based liquids and in the words of manufacturers will deteriorate very easily.

...and I do not particularly want something that says DYNAMAT printed all over the exposed surface......

I really beleive that Phil's solution for installation is the best..... but is time consuming. Fortunately the surfaces of the engine cover are all relatively flat and all the holes are predrilled.

Really curious with the expereince that David will share with us.

Bob

[David DeWeese]

Hi,
My insulation arrived today and decided to put it to a test...

Bought a cheapo toaster oven a while back that has so little insulation I can heat half my house just by cooking a small pizza in it,(on sale at Walmart and couldn't resist).

Warmed up oven to 400 degrees F, reading on glass was 320. Placed insulation approx. 1" away from front and secured with bricks. Let soak for 30 minutes and made another reading,(ambient temperature in kitchen was 76).

Four degrees difference seems pretty good to me.

Thanks, David

[Bob Carriere]

Your are quite the mad scientist David.

Hope you fire insurance agent is not a MLU fan !!!!!!!

What is the "stuff" used between that foil sandwich...?? some kind of fiber??

Will that fiber ignite if exposed to a flame or is it like Rockwool insulation which is basically mineral.

Now how are you going to install it to the engine cover??? Phil's idea of stiching with small gauge Mig wire using existing hole males sense. Or some kind of super glue that is heat resistant. There is a special silicon used to glue the seal around the doors of wood fired airtight stoves.

The foil covering is most effective at reflecting back infra red heat... the fiber backing is to prevent heat transfer to the other side.....

Ever wonder how a blanket or mat made of the same woven fabric as the "titanium" tape (see Jeggs catalogue) used for wrapping exhaust headers would perform. After all that exhaust tape can endure cherry red exhaust heat without deteriorating.

Bob

[Ganmain Tony]

Great job David - that seems to indicate its pretty good at insulating.

What about a combo Bob? The exhaust material and this stuff...