Scout T5329

[George Moore]

Hi Ben,
Still planning to get over to see the carrier some time....retirement has left me with so little time, I wonder how I managed to work and do my hobby!!

Re the stencilling mentioned earlier, I enclose a shot of abandoned "brens" in France, there is a whole range of stencilling, the type and various dimensions and weights etc, I would assume for shipping purposes.
These MIGHT be what appears on the stowage bin or maybe not.....just a guess.

Another point, you say the colour under certain parts is the Green G3...looking at the floor, do I see what could be Bronze green ????

I can send a higher resolution if you want ??

George.

[Ben]

Hi George

You can pop over whenever you like.

I have seen that picture. I like the loading stencilling on the side, I'm pretty sure it's the same stencilling on the long tool box on the scout. I'm trying to get a higher res picture of the Capuzzo carriers to see.

There is a little original paint left on the hull. The front lower armour which was sitting in sand whilst it was abandoned on the Australian farm has an almost total covering, this is how I discovered the reg number! The base is green with tones of sand and brown over it all. The only other real paint is in the foot well were it was protected a little.

The best source for a perfect paint match is under all the hull fittings. Fuel tank mounts, rear plate steering units, clutch pivot, battery box. These haven't been removed since factory fitted and show clear signs of KG3 colour, compared to a colour chip from Mike Starmer.

These also suggest that the hulls were painted with no fittings mounted, these must have been fitted as sub assemblies and paint added over the top once fitted.

I think the order of paint finish for the Scout was first, KG3 from factory. Second, based on the Capuzzo picture it had a desert scheme applied before it shipped to Africa (this was were the loading stencilling was added to tool box) it's unclear if this was the early desert scheme or the early caunter scheme. It then had a third scheme applied, probably in Australia were all the original markings were covered. This scheme can be seen in the earlier posts whilst it was on the war bond rally in Perth. It's this last scheme that protected the reg number so well post war.

Ben

[RichardT10829]

Make sure you fully document the reg, I reckon you could get it back on the carrier when registered if you are lucky.

[Ben]

I've got the reg on the vehicle, the makers plate on the vehicle and the contract card tying the two together. If that's not good enough to get it registered I'm not sure what else the DVLA can want.

I've had a chat with them and they think it'll be OK, just need to get the inspector bloke out.

Ben

[RichardT10829]

Yeah that ought to be enough, fingers crossed the plate has not been re issued

[Ben]

Hi

Shaun popped round today to drop off an engine. While he was here i put his carrier knowledge (and willingness to hit things with a bigger hammer:-) to good use.

First job was to remove the two pieces of damaged armour. We used Shaun's oxy acetylene method which in my opinion has to be the quickest and easiest way of getting damaged armour off. You get the rivet red hot with the acetylene then give it a quick blast of oxygen to blow the head off. As the rivet is a lower quality steel than the armour it melts much quicker. You can do a whole panel in a few minutes, once all the heads are off you can punch the back of the rivet out with a punch. It leaves a very clean hole and unless you're very careless doesn't damage the armour. The mess left in the photos is the slag from the rivet which comes right off with a stiff wire brush. Photos show the during and after results, lovely clean frame ready for new piece of armour!! 15 minutes work max!!

After the two pieces of armour were done we took out the cross tube and rear suspension boogies. Both only put up a small fight and came out cleanly. A good day, thanks for the help Shaun.

Ben

[RichardT10829]

So when is the riveting party ?

[Ben]

Pretty soon, there's one or two needed on the hull parked next to the scout.

Ben

[RichardT10829]

Well I have the gun and snaps.... nowt to it matey (sitting here chuckling)

In all seriousness I would meander down as long as there is T and medals after we're done

[Ben]

After removing the armour last week, this weeks job was putting the new bits on. First job was to clean and prime the angle reading for the new steel. Whilst that was drying I used the old piece as a guide to drill the holes in the right place on the new steel. After all the holes were drilled I should have countersunk them all but being impatient I offered it up and using a couple of bolts and old drills to see what it looked like. Very happy, fitted perfectly and using the old part as a drill guide worked a treat. I just need to countersink the holes and it can stay on ready to rivet.

[RichardT10829]

Maystagg cobalt cutters do a good job matey that's what I used

[Ben]

I did a couple of small jobs too. Took the front idlers off. Nice 1938 dated wheel, the axle goes to show how well the soldiers in the field looked after their kit! the wheel came straight off after unbolting the wheel and there was no rust with grease still on the shaft.
A couple of shots showing some of the early makers stamps, dates (1937) and part numbers. These are from the upper engine cover.
I'd be interested in hearing from anybody who has any early dated British wheels for sale or swap. I have some British and Canadian ones to swap.

Ben

[Ben]

Cheers for the tip Rich. I'm pretty lucky with having a store at work for machine tools, I can borrow pretty much anything. More 13/32 drills would be nice :-) most of the stuff is metric....

Ben

[eddy8men]

ben i seem to remember i have some pre war wheels but i think the rubber was goosed i'll have a look for you tomorrow.

rick

[Ben]

Cheers Rick

Good early wheels would be a massive help. I can get them rubbered if needs be.....can you send me an email with some pics if you have them?

Cheers

Ben