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			One old bloke I was speaking to that repaired trucks for years suggested cutting frame in between hangers and doing the join there and plating to  past the hangers in either direction
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	Have a good one ![]() Andrew Custodian of the "Rare and Rusty"  
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Thanks for the advice the only problem i have is if i put between front hangers ill loose my vin number, but rear hanger is no problems. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Thanks 
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	42 FGT No8 gun tractor 1978 Army Land rover series 3 FFR 1965 work shop trailer  | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Jason post pictures of the cracks for accurate replys.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	Robert Pearce.  | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			cracks in chassie rail someone at some stage did a crap fix on them.
		 
		
		
		
			
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	42 FGT No8 gun tractor 1978 Army Land rover series 3 FFR 1965 work shop trailer  | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			another pic
		 
		
		
		
			
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	42 FGT No8 gun tractor 1978 Army Land rover series 3 FFR 1965 work shop trailer  | 
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			She has definately had a hard life   
		
		
		
		
		
		
			![]() That chassis is a mess Personally I would look for another chassis. F15A and add the double rail at rear and transfer winch mounts and assorted bits 
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	Have a good one ![]() Andrew Custodian of the "Rare and Rusty"  
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			I agree with AJ. I was hoping you just had some small cracks that were easy fixed. It looks like you might need some new spring hangers as well as the repairs. Good luck you have a lot of work there. The MB-F1 recomends hot riveting chanel or angle reinforcing behind the weld and welding the outside edges together.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	Robert Pearce.  | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Not so much a hard life as a poorly designed jib.  FGT chassis needs stiffening to fit a jib, they're only 15 cwt (ie. single thickness chassis rails) and the winch is located in the narrow section of the chassis rail, aft of the taper from the midsection.  There's just no strength there, and with a jib fitted the winch cable pulls UP on the chassis rails instead of ALONG as designed.  Unless they're stiffened like the pic below they'll bend and crack like Jason's.  My FGT9 chassis is the same.
		 
		
		
		
			
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	One of the original Australian CMP hunters.  | 
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			#9  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			I doubt that you'd need to add the strengthening plates. On the 8 cwts Ford cut the frame rails at an angle and butt welded them together and that was it. How much rough use will a restored gun tractor get anyway? 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			I'd groove the crack a bit with an angle grinder then weld it with enough heat to get good penetration then grind it smooth. Do the same on the other side and keep going. Plates welded on will detract from the restoration in my opinion. Personally I'd get a 15 cwt frame and stamp your serial # on it and forget the welding. 
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	1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2  | 
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			#10  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			...or cut out the serial and weld it into the new chassis.  That way it would be the "genuine chassis number"!
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			One of the original Australian CMP hunters. Last edited by Tony Wheeler; 25-04-13 at 22:11.  | 
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