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  #1  
Old 25-04-13, 07:15
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #2  
Old 06-07-13, 03:28
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is online now
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cody, Wyoming, USA
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Default Seal that concrete!

Scott,

Before you put ANYTHING on that lovely concrete, consider waiting till its cured then proof coat it with a penetrating concrete sealant. I used liquid Perspex in a previous shed and it worked a treat. Concrete dust was nil, sweeping up and removing oil drops was easy. Gave it two coats to leave a slick slightly gloss finish, so had to take a little care if it got wet, but ended in a much tidier and dust-free shed/work environment.

The shed after that was coated with a so-called concrete paint by the building contractor: it was rubbish, and stripped off just running wheels across it, but too late to give the floor a coat of something better, so I had to live with it.

The most recent shed got a coat of a satin finish water repelling sealant, and that works fine, too.

Mike C
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  #3  
Old 06-07-13, 06:48
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
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Default Mike

How many sheds does it take to make a village?


David
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  #4  
Old 06-07-13, 17:10
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is online now
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Cody, Wyoming, USA
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Default The Shed Complex

My wife dubbed the last one at Gunning, NSW, 'The Shed Complex'.... a 40' x 25', a 40' x 20' skillion, and a 40' x 20' shed, all adjacent and with concrete floors and with aprons front and back (to run the forklift around and work outside).

Then we moved to the USA.....

So now I have a modest 30' x 25'.

Always believed that acquiring MVs was one thing, but housing them properly to prevent deterioration while they waited in the resto line was a top priority. But that's just my view....

Mike C
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  #5  
Old 24-08-13, 05:35
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
Bluebell
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
Posts: 5,541
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Scott try baring the motor over now.
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Bluebell

Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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  #6  
Old 24-08-13, 08:38
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hrpearce hrpearce is offline
WO8 C15A 142736
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Batlow Road near the Cow & Calf
Posts: 1,958
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If you get desperate smash an old spark plug and braise an air fitting to it and try lifting the head with an air compressor.
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Robert Pearce.
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  #7  
Old 24-08-13, 09:53
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
Bluebell
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
Posts: 5,541
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Scott have you tried turning it against normal rotation?
Has the gearbox had water in it? Is it the gear box that's stopping it? What happens if you try with the clutch depressed? Will the chassis roll with the gearbox in neutral?(main shaft still turns) Will it roll with the clutch depressed (clutch is free and the gearbox is all turning)
If it turns out that the motor is seized, put a little diesel in the cylinders, with a bit of rag. Light it and let it burn for quite a while. The thermal expansion will help free it up. (probably better out side) It only needs to be a small flame.
I assume this is a 216 and has cast iron pistons?
Try a small hydraulic jack with a block of wood under the exhaust studs. be careful. you might get enough purchase by hand with no lever fitted.
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Bluebell

Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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