Snail's pace Blitz rebuild

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Ryan

Here is one method I have used with success twice. In one case the engine had no compression on that side because of valve leaks on the other the engine was stuck with no compression. The engine is an Ford truck engine as used in `49 Lincoln and shares the use of studs instead bolts with earlier flathead V8s, later that year they went over to bolts which makes removing heads much easier.

I cut a number of wedges of different thickness and worked them in all the way around the head. First a bunch of thin ones giving them each a tap with hammer and working around the block. Then gradually thicker ones, trying to keep the pressure even as I went. What you see in the picture below is thick wedges pushing the head of the top of the studs.




The grease or oil approach should also work as long as you have compression on more than one cylinder.

One other obvious point use lots of penetration solution on all the studs I like acetone and ATF. Really let it soak in, there used to be very thing hole saws that were cut the corrosion out between the stud and the head. This was almost a given on the Flathead V8s with aluminum heads.

Cheers Phil

[Paul Dutton]

What's the OD on the studs? I've restored many classic engines in my time. I use FOX wedges on heads, they are very thin steel wedges used in engineering for that very same job! Also to clean out the corrosion down the studs you can use COPPER TUBE.....! If you can get tube the same ID for the studs and OD for the hole. In one end of tube cut jagged "teeth" with a hacksaw. Nothing fancy as you will need to repeat a few times in the process. Either drill a hole in opposite end or attach some form of handle, I use small bar through the hole, an Allen (hex?) Key is fine. Then just slip bar over stud and rotate to cut down between the stud and hole! Works great on alloy housings with steel studs! Thermostat housings etc.

[Ryan]

Thanks for the ideas guys, still in th process of removing them when I get time. In the meantime I removed a set of tool box/wheel carrier chassis mounts from a C60L wreck I have. I had planned on fixing them to my F60L but the bolt holes are not present on the Ford. What variant would not require a tool/wheel carrier?

[Ryan]

Hi all, I have a F60 with the ARN of 53627. Does anyone have more info in regards to this truck?

[Ryan]

Also, just on the macs website.
I cannot see a listing for rear brake cylinder kits in the 1 1/2 inch size. Has anyone got a source for these?
And are these:
http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-fo...0R3CHL1071994/
they are brake linings, ok for blitz brake shoes?

[Ryan]

ok, the 1 1/2 inch brake kit has the modern part number of f3634 according to the modern cmp number thread. Is this an online thing only or can they be had at say repco or the like?

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Ryan

ok, the 1 1/2 inch brake kit has the modern part number of f3634 according to the modern cmp number thread. Is this an online thing only or can they be had at say repco or the like?

Hi Ryan,

I obtained my wheel cylinder cups at Bayside Brake and Clutch in Frankston.

I had written to ABS a few years ago and they informed me those sizes as used on Ford Blitzes are still available off the shelf hence I just tried my local brake shop. Sure beats hardened years-old NOS rubber. Part Nos are Rear- A725 and front- A857.

Cheers,

Jacques

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Ryan

Hi all, I have a F60 with the ARN of 53627. Does anyone have more info in regards to this truck?

I don't have my detailed copies of the relevant pages handy but the range 53603 to 53640 has a lot of Ford CMPs including F60L Stores Binned, Workshop, F60S Water, F60L GS with winch, F15 GS Canadian.

Will check when I have them accessible.