M38A1 CDN2 Steering question

[maple_leaf_eh]

Warren:

Where is your vehicle - cuz Canada is a big place?

[Warren Quin]

Thanx for the reply's...

Rob, I have the castle nut and cotter pin.

In picture 2 you can see the tie rod end in relation to the bolt that connects to the tub under the rad. I know its not a great picture but does the relationship there look right or should the bell crank project further out?

About the only other thing I can find related to this was a discussion on G503.com from 2006 (and a similar one on Willys M Jeeps that referenced it) related to an M38 question but the bell crank pictured in it looks exactly like mine:

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=460405

In it there is mention of replacing:
Bell Crank - NSN 2530-00-737-5183/Willys P/N 800867
With
Bell Crank - NSN 2530-00-333-3527/Willys P/N 906296
Dust Cap - NSN 2530-00-333-3526/Willys P/N 808436)
Shoulder Bolt - NSN 5306-21-107-1495/Willys P/N 906396
Bearing, Sleeve - NSN 3120-21-106-0245/Willys P/N 906397
Along with some washers and seals ???

which again sounds like what I have but I can't find any of the part numbers other than the original, which is the stock spare bell crank I have, but it didn't look like I could mount it...

I have had the entire front end apart looking for anything wrong but other than possibly the bell crank sitting lower, which it might be but I have nothing to compare it to locally, and being shorter, which it isn't compared to the stock one I was playing with yesterday... Any help sorting out where my issue is would be greatly appreciated.

Maple-Leaf_eh:

And you're right... I have adjusted my profile so it's a little less expansive... Saint John, New Brunswick...

Warren

[rob love]

That conversation on G503 rang a bell....sure enough I was the one that gave those numbers (I am cmpman on that forum).

[Warren Quin]

I thought so, based on the content similarities

Rob, do you know if there is a "collar" kit to mount the common bell crank on that CDN2 mount?

This is a picture of the mount with the collar (heavy tin with a spring inside and seal) from inside the top of the existing bell crank pushed on. With this the common crank seemed to fit fine.

This looks like it would bring up the crank and change the angle so maybe the tie rod would fit.

Its not something I can make unfortunately.

I hate to do it as I was keeping it stock, or more correctly "last used" I guess, and what is on it is perfectly usable but I do need that tie rod end addressed :-(

Thanx again
Warren

[rob love]

If you had access to a lathe, then I suppose you could make anything. I have not had to repair my bellcrank, but I remember a friend ordering the stuff from JC Whitney back in the day and making it work.

Perhaps Brian Asbury has the original Cdn kits. They came out around 1982 as I recall, were made by Mil-quip, and contained everything needed to replace the bellcrank. Only problem we had with the kits were that the center bolt was extremely hardened, and we could not drill it out for the modification. We merely would re-use the original.

Perhaps other problems you may have could be extremely sagged springs, or an axle that has sheared the center pin of the spring and moved forward. We had thousands of jeeps running with that long bellcrank, and had no problems.

Are both your tie rod tubes straight?

[Warren Quin]

I'll ask Brian than as I have no means of making something.

Everything is good. No loose springs, it steers fine, I had no problems aligning it... It just that the tie rod doesn't work with the bend in it as is...

Edit: I just went out and jacked it up to verify the springs. It had to go up almost 2.5 inches for the angles to look like they would clear and the shackles were pretty much vertical. I don't think that's right...

I will just have to keep looking...

If you have a unit with this bell crank could I get a picture or two of the tie rod angles for comparison? One of the problems is I have nothing to compare it to...

Thank again
Warren

[BCA]

I checked a few jeeps and some NOS tie rod ends. The diameter of the body at the end of the centre tie rod end (where it is a tight fit) is 1-7/16" for NOS part. It is possible that repro parts have a thicker body which would rub against the other tie rod. However I checked 4 CDN2/3 M38A1's and they all have very little or no clearance where you are having your problem. My 1953 M38A1 has about 1/8" or more clearance.
Maybe this lack of clearance was not a problem as long as the part could be installed tightly. There would seem to be very little differential motion at this tight spot when the wheels are turned. ..... Brian