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#2
13-05-13, 12:14
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I thought so, based on the content similarities
 Rob, do you know if there is a "collar" kit to mount the common bell crank on that CDN2 mount? This is a picture of the mount with the collar (heavy tin with a spring inside and seal) from inside the top of the existing bell crank pushed on. With this the common crank seemed to fit fine. This looks like it would bring up the crank and change the angle so maybe the tie rod would fit. Its not something I can make unfortunately. I hate to do it as I was keeping it stock, or more correctly "last used" I guess, and what is on it is perfectly usable but I do need that tie rod end addressed :-( Thanx again Warren
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1967 M38A1 CDN2 CFR: 67-07929 Stock and "mostly there" https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lbud60opzbv0aug/6OIkoCg_Fs 
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#3
13-05-13, 15:06
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If you had access to a lathe, then I suppose you could make anything. I have not had to repair my bellcrank, but I remember a friend ordering the stuff from JC Whitney back in the day and making it work.
Perhaps Brian Asbury has the original Cdn kits. They came out around 1982 as I recall, were made by Mil-quip, and contained everything needed to replace the bellcrank. Only problem we had with the kits were that the center bolt was extremely hardened, and we could not drill it out for the modification. We merely would re-use the original. Perhaps other problems you may have could be extremely sagged springs, or an axle that has sheared the center pin of the spring and moved forward. We had thousands of jeeps running with that long bellcrank, and had no problems. Are both your tie rod tubes straight?
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#4
13-05-13, 23:24
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I'll ask Brian than as I have no means of making something.
Everything is good. No loose springs, it steers fine, I had no problems aligning it... It just that the tie rod doesn't work with the bend in it as is... Edit: I just went out and jacked it up to verify the springs. It had to go up almost 2.5 inches for the angles to look like they would clear and the shackles were pretty much vertical. I don't think that's right... I will just have to keep looking... If you have a unit with this bell crank could I get a picture or two of the tie rod angles for comparison? One of the problems is I have nothing to compare it to... Thank again Warren
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1967 M38A1 CDN2 CFR: 67-07929 Stock and "mostly there" https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lbud60opzbv0aug/6OIkoCg_Fs Last edited by Warren Quin; 14-05-13 at 01:23.
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#5
14-05-13, 01:15
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centre tie rods ends
I checked a few jeeps and some NOS tie rod ends. The diameter of the body at the end of the centre tie rod end (where it is a tight fit) is 1-7/16" for NOS part. It is possible that repro parts have a thicker body which would rub against the other tie rod. However I checked 4 CDN2/3 M38A1's and they all have very little or no clearance where you are having your problem. My 1953 M38A1 has about 1/8" or more clearance.
Maybe this lack of clearance was not a problem as long as the part could be installed tightly. There would seem to be very little differential motion at this tight spot when the wheels are turned. ..... Brian
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#6
14-05-13, 12:14
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Thanx to everyone who contributed. I guess, for now, it will stay as is using my pressed tie rod end. Eventually I think I will have to get a mount that will take the regular crank and new springs to bring the angles up (like crossed swords) as I can't see anyway to lengthen the bell crank to push them out and apart. This would seem to be the only answer given there are only 3 connection points on the tie rod setup...
Assuming there is not a different tie rod, it just seems strange that, if all the CDN2's have this long bell crank, that it hasn't come up before. I can't have the only unit with slightly tired springs... Thanx again... Warren
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1967 M38A1 CDN2 CFR: 67-07929 Stock and "mostly there" https://www.dropbox.com/sh/lbud60opzbv0aug/6OIkoCg_Fs
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#7
14-05-13, 15:26
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You could go to the narrow tie rods used on the M38 and CJs. Tie rods came in two threads and thicknesses. The tapered studs are the same, so they are interchangeable.
I checked mine and there is very little clearance. Just the nature of the beast I guess. Re the bellcrank mount, there was always a problem with separation of the crossmember at the bellcrank mount. If the crossmember does need welding, I recommend removing the radiator, as it is in very close proximity. Also, the radiator tends to get beaten up in the area of the bellcrank bolt...another thing to check on.
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