Restoration of Hull 731- Carrier, MG (Aust) Mortar Carrying

[Darrin Wright]

Some pics of the diff, which I beleive to be a 1938 diff with the machined axle tubes and modified brake backing plates. The housing does not have the modification to fit a diff breather.
The backing plates are marked 'LEFT' and 'RIGHT'and are both different in how they were modified for a BGC. This diff is out of a BGC and the backing plates are from this diff. To my knowledge they have not been messed with until my Dad rebuilt it.
These pics may help someone who is looking for these items in correctly identifying what they are looking at.

[Darrin Wright]

Installed the diff into the rear of the hull, took a bit to align and bolt up by myself.
In the afternoon I fabricated and welded in the bracket for the handbrake lever, so that it can be mounted up under the front armour by the drivers right knee.
Also had a tidy up as I could not find parts for painting, hopefully tomorrow morning I can paint some green and install more items in the afternoon.

Fixed the binding gear linkage in the rear, now just have to figure out how the linkage moves around the right floor exhaust elbow.

[Darrin Wright]

Managed to paint items and install some of them, including my refurbished air cleaners. I am now seeing space on my parts shelves for other things.
The air cleaners were refurbished with a modern concertina element out of a diesel electric loco, they just had to be cut down the correct length to fit and installed new felts at each end.

Painted the brake backing plates but have found that the section where the brake actuator shaft goes through the mounting plate/bracket interferes with the hole in the backing plate, so may have to remove some metal to allow for it to fit.

Fitted all the internals to the gearbox and have come to a halt as I require a new shaft for the clutch fork. I also have to repair the rear cast mount as it has a crack in it. Have installed some new items that I bought at Corowa this year, so that should remove some movement within and hopefully make it a bit quieter, but being in a BGC I will probably never know with all the other noise.
Will get a new shaft machined up in the next couple of weeks.

[Darrin Wright]

With the parts that I had, I have finished the gearbox. It turned out that I did not have to weld the rear mount as I had the correct item on hand, so that is now bolted on. The output shaft willl have to be machined and sleeved as it has rust on the sealing surface from sitting all those years.

Painted the hull except for the front section of armour that has the new section of steel, that still requires work with body filler to get it flat. Hull looks good all green, bit glossy but that will change in the coming months.

Engine now has all valves installed and adjusted. I found that when you buy 'ädjustable lifters' what they really mean is that one must still follow the original method to adjust and insatll the valve assemblies, but the lifters are adjustable which speeds up and makes easier the installation. I thought with ádjustable lifters' that they would be more modern and be able to be adjusted in the engine much like my Chev or Jeep. Anyway that was 2 days well spent... I am now at the pint of installing the pistons, conrods and bearings.
I have painted the sump, intake manifold and carby choke/throttle bracket.
I also have a new carby from Mac's Auto and the other little items that I ordered have arrived.
Water pumps have been installed and that has allowed me to mount the engine into its stand so that I can work on the underside to install those bearings.

Found the original elec conduit from the front of the hull, so using that as a guide have welded in a replacement threaded block that secures the conduit into the hull.
Fitted 2 of the 3 oil cooler brackets.
Oil cooler valve and bracket installed into engine bay.

Work will slow down as I finish holidays and return to my normal job...

[Darrin Wright]

This weekend I commenced fitting pistons to conrods and placing them into the engine.
Washed and inspected all parts, checked rings in piston grooves and also checked ring gap. As it was 8 deg C I used a little blow heater to keep warm and heat the cast iron rings, also went into town and bought a ring spreader as I did not want to break any rings. Once I had this, I assembled up the front 2 pistons and got them into the engine. Then on to check the bearing gap. Either the wind or the dogs tail has brushed the plasti-gauge strip off my work area, but unable to find it (therefore unable to check bearging) so I moved on to the clutch bearing.

I ordered a grease hose for the clutch throw out bearing from AJay's Ford parts in New Zealand and that had arrived early in the week. Great value as I do not think I would have been able to get this made in Australia for the price I paid. NOS and in good condition. Cleaned out the grease cup and fitted it and the hose to the gearbox housing.

I also collected a new floor plate for the drivers controls/linkages, from the lazer cutters. Placed it in/on the drivers floor to check the bend angle and shape. All good there, so in time will fabricate and fit all brackets and drill holes to bolt it into the hull.

[Darrin Wright]

This weekend I continued (and finished) assembling the rings onto the pistons and placed all pistons & conrods into the bores. As I went checked all clearances on the bigend bearings and crankshaft journals.
Still very cold and had the blow heater going to keep myself and the rings warm.
Placed the oil pump into its location and tightened it up, book said to lock wire bolt in place, but with only 1 bolt not sure what to lock wire it to. So the lock wire now runs around the shaft of the oil pump, if it was to come loose it won't go too far (1/8 to 1/4 turn).
Cleaned out the sump of dust and debris and have front oil seal soaking in oil for when it gets assembled. In the front of the sump is a little 'receptacle' which is part of the PCV system, so cut some felt and placed in so that it will have semi-filtered air.
Installed all head studs on the left side with a little thread sealant so they will not leak water. Then installed the head and done up the head nuts. Not tight at this stage.
Also using copper head gaskets from the gasket kit.
Installed some new spark plugs into the head so that dust does not enter the cylinder, bought Champion H10-C from Repco @ AU$3.90 each.

I have the starter motor armatures at a friends being straightened as they are a little bit bent, with a bit of mild adjustment they should be right to be re-assembled later.

Also bought an air fitting for my die-grinder, so enlarged the hole in the left brake backing plate so that it now fits over the section of mounting plate where the brake actuator shaft goes through. Backing plate is now sitting on the diff, still to be done up.

My youngest son climbed up the ladder to study/check on my progress 'inside the hull, his comments were 'my you have done some work....."
Little bit more work yet before they can ride in it.