Fuel tanks

[Jim Burrill]

POR has failed over time with several of my MV friends. The white teflon separates and the film gums up the tubes.

I have used a newer product called "Red Kote" -http://damonq.com/red-kote.html
RED-KOTE®
Red-Kote is an internal fuel tank liner designed to seal leaks and prevent further rusting. As a sealant, Red-Kote excels at sealing the often hundreds of pin-hole leaks that occur along seams or where straps wrap around the tank. Once in place, Red-Kote forms a very tough, flexible membrane that will never crack or flake as many competitive products do. Red-Kote will not plug lines or cause engine damage when used properly. Future rust will be prevented because condensation will not contact the metal. A partial list of additives that Red-Kote is resistant to includes ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, toluene, methyl tertiary butyl ether, isopropyl alcohol and tetraethyl lead. Red-Kote takes approximately eight hours to dry. Packaged nine quarts per case or single gallons.

I have used this on a Dingo and the Humber main and aux tanks and not problems yet.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jim

Failure of Gas Tank Sealants in the US often related to our E10 gasoline. Jim raises a very good point about the white gas tank sealant as sold by Por 15 and others, having been observed to fail do to the age of the tank sealant and introduction of Ethanol containing fuel sold in the US are at least anecdotally responsible for fuel tank sealant failure.

I wonder how often these failures are the result of a less than perfect treatment of the tank or a tank design that just did not let the coating cover every surface in the tank evenly?

Jim how long as the RED-KOTE® been in the tanks you mention?

Cheers Phil

[Jim Burrill]

Hi Phil,
I admit, I don't personally have a long track record with Red Kote. The dingo tank was done about three years ago and the Humber tanks done about 2 and a half years back. I also sealed about a dozen watime Brit jerry cans.

I have not seen evidence of the stuff in the fuel filter of the HAC, nor have I had any carb problems. (other than the need to hand pump the fuel pump before starting it after a couple of months. - and getting used to the way the carb used the "pull, turn, pull and hold" choke cable to start it all the time)

So far, it has been a "non -issue" for my HAC. I have not heard any complaints from Bogdan about the tank in his Dingo either.

The shop who restored my tanks ran through a recounting of his use of POR and the failures and why he shifted to Red Kote, and his happiness with it.

I intend to treat the new Carrier tanks I get from Ben with it.

Cheers,
Jim

[Andrew Rowe]

Just a thought... how come you guys don't make your tanks from stainless steel?,then you do not have to coat the in sides with any thing.
I have found there is not much cost difference in the price of the material , and you can not tell the difference when painted, and you don't have problems with rusting from condensation because of half fulling tanks. There is also the problems from rust when you solder , if you don't neualize the acid flux.
I believe the original tanks used a tin coated steel , that made soldering fittings really easy , and also stop the internal rust.. just my thoughts.

[kevin powles]

Originally Posted by Andrew Rowe

Just a thought... how come you guys don't make your tanks from stainless steel?,then you do not have to coat the in sides with any thing.
I have found there is not much cost difference in the price of the material , and you can not tell the difference when painted, and you don't have problems with rusting from condensation because of half fulling tanks. There is also the problems from rust when you solder , if you don't neualize the acid flux.
I believe the original tanks used a tin coated steel , that made soldering fittings really easy , and also stop the internal rust.. just my thoughts.

Hi andrew, agree with you 100%, been saying that all along.

Kevin.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Guys

I agree with you about making a replacement tank out of stainless, but I just don't know how to weld stainless. Always seem to have the wrong type or the wrong wire, or wrong gas.

Even if I solve those problems not sure how to attach the filler necks.

Now as to were the original tanks coated, on my Chevy CMPs 41 no, 42 yes but it looks like regular steel but has no rust in the tank or outside. 45 HUP the tanks had been really coated in what looks like tin/lead. Wonder if the raw tanks were dipped after being welded and then the filler neck and other fittings soldered on last.

As to sealants the problem as I see it, is we just keep our vehicles to long, good sealant for current gasoline may dissolve completely in the gas of 10 years from now. There is a big stink in the US right now over the introduction of E15 or 15% ethanol. The proponents of it say there is no problem as long as older cars were built after 2001.

Cheers Phil

[Lynn Eades]

Hi. Andrew is correct. Most fuel tanks were made from tin plate ie. a piece of panel steel with a thin layer of tinning (soldier) on its surfaces. Any one ever looked at how much was on old landrover tanks.
later they were galvanized, then anodized (zinc) Now, I guess they are made of poly#%*@$