For Sale: Rivet snaps (being produced)

[Lynn Eades]

Richard, that is a small gun. Mine has a 1 1/16" dia. piston x 5" stroke (not a 100% sure about the length of the stroke)
But quite a difference between the gun sizes.
Paul, there are smaller rivets of different sizes, but 95% of them are 3/8" in various lengths. Basically the rivet need 1 1/2 times it's dia. to form a head on a flat surface, and nearly twice the diameter (of rivet sticking through, out the other side) to form a rounded head into a countersunk hole. This means when you buy them they want to be in the area of 20mm longer than the thickness you intend to rivet. The point is, Don't buy them too short. (You'll need a carrier first)

[Jim Burrill]

found this on ebay - will it work?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400512126007...84.m1497.l2649

400512126007

[Lynn Eades]

I would go for the biggest of them Jim

[Paul Dutton]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Richard, that is a small gun. Mine has a 1 1/16" dia. piston x 5" stroke (not a 100% sure about the length of the stroke)
But quite a difference between the gun sizes.
Paul, there are smaller rivets of different sizes, but 95% of them are 3/8" in various lengths. Basically the rivet need 1 1/2 times it's dia. to form a head on a flat surface, and nearly twice the diameter (of rivet sticking through, out the other side) to form a rounded head into a countersunk hole. This means when you buy them they want to be in the area of 20mm longer than the thickness you intend to rivet. The point is, Don't buy them too short. (You'll need a carrier first)

THats fine mate, was just something i read in another thread, probably a completely different vehicle tho. I tend to keep snippets of useless info in my grey matter and spurt them out when I think I know what I am talking about.....which isnt often....!!!!

I have actually rivetted before, many years ago. Copper (nice n soft!) and brass, by hand. Two hammers, one in the vice and the Ball (Ball Pein Hammer) on the other side to kneal the edges over into a dome and dress it smooth. Quite a satisfying task! Still use it now to repair tools etc that need a rivet to secure.

[RichardT10829]

That is the hammer i used for the job and it worked very well... bigger hammer would have been easier, but its very achievable with the one i had. if you are countersinking the plate Jim i used a 45deg maystag countersink bit, and created a cut into the plate with a diameter of 16mm. the setting allowance for my snap for the armour from memory was around 13mm. This is the length poking through when the rivet is seated. so for example on my carrier the side armour rivets i need to consider 5mm for the frame rail, 8mm for the armour and 13mm for the setting allowance, so the dimension for rivets for the side would be no less than 3/8 x 26mm (button head) i ordered them longer then made a collet on my lathe to the correct setting length, then turned some rivets down in areas where the countersink was not quite as deep etc.... I could chat on for ages mainly because i am a sad sack... but partly because the thought of rivetting a project for the first time is very daunting for folk to want to undertake..... having done the job i can advocate everyone to try it !!!!!