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  #1  
Old 07-07-13, 11:48
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default Nearly forgot

Topped off the day by finishing the exhaust manifolds.
Exhaust manifolds painted 1.jpg
They are now ready to install, but I won't yet. Am planning to make a metal piece off one side manifold bolts, so I can pivot the engine on it's stand. Not the trolley I currently move it around on, one yet to be bought. Many things are yet to be bought but I won't have the $$$ for much now, until I get tax done. Even then I may need to sell a kidney. Fairly low mileage one, in case anyone's interested.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #2  
Old 07-07-13, 11:55
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Work of Art

Yeah, I know what you mean, Keith!

This engine will be more French than Canadian, when it's finished.
Hope it doesn't surrender at the first hill.
Still need the following parts:

French crank chaft.
French piston pins (different size to the ones I had bought several weeks ago )
French con rod bearings.
New cam shaft. Any country!

I ordered a new set of lifters last week. They are non-adjustable type. Can't go out of adjustment if there aint any!!!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #3  
Old 21-07-13, 12:15
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Front Axle/Steering finished

At long last, the front end is finished (or very, very nearly). I have to order another brake cylinder bolt from Macs, THEN it's finished. Well, the wheel nuts were painted this morning, so they are only finger tight. Once torqued up, THEN it's finished. Oh, hold a minute, I have brushed one coat of paint on the bolts, so they will need another 2 before they're right, so..............THEN it's......well you get the idea!
Front axle reassembled 1.jpg Driver side steering knuckle 1.jpg Front diff & brake line.jpg

Finally got the NOS lifters.
NOS lifter set 2.jpg

Can someone please tell me which of these emergency brake brackets is correct for Ford CMP? Neither came with the vehicle, both acquired since, so I have no idea which one to clean up.
Emergency Brake Bracket.jpg
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #4  
Old 21-07-13, 13:02
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hrpearce hrpearce is offline
WO8 C15A 142736
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Batlow Road near the Cow & Calf
Posts: 1,958
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Tony the bottom one is for the brake on the transfer case according to my MB-F1.
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Robert Pearce.
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  #5  
Old 21-07-13, 13:08
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Tony Baker
 
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Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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Default

Thanks Robert.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #6  
Old 21-07-13, 15:14
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
Bluebell
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
Posts: 5,541
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Tony, What is different about the crankshaft and the gudgeon pins?
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
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So many questions....
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  #7  
Old 22-07-13, 05:20
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Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
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The pins I had bought were either oversize OD, or there are at least two sizes. My set was too snug. The set yet to arrive are the correct OD. Not expecting to need to, I hadn't measured the pin size before I bought the first set.

The need for new crank is primarily due to the new piston rods, which have a locked individual bearing each rod, whereas the old one has lubrication holes for the old style rod bearings which were floating bearings of one pair for the two rods coming from each journal. Old crank = one oil hole per journal, New crank = 2 holes per journal. Use of the earlier crank with my 8BA rods would result in potential oil starvation to the rod bearings. Potentially a diabolical situation. Most of that I expect you would already know, and I write the above information more for clarity of others. As to what differences exist between Ford 8BA crank and the French ones, I am not aware of any physical differences, but the advantages of brand new crank VS old, shagged out one, is what I am thinking about. And for the French block, I might as well get the matching crank. Rumor has it that the materials were better quality anyway. That, and they are quite inexpensive at this time, with the best price found so far, being around the $200-$250 mark. That is price bought from USA. Shipping adds $$$ of course, which will always be the case regardless of which one I buy. Have not found anything comparable for sale new in Australia.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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