My Blitz's

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

Was the one you missed the center one? Glad you got it off anyway. I've been amazed over the years how ugly cylinders can look with rust and how much cleans up.

Now a couple of things to check take a look at http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/H...May%20Work.htm some of my pictures of working on my HUP engine, first check the valve seats for cracks.

It may be worth having the whole engine magnifluxed before you do any machine work. Still going to cost you to have it hot dipped and cleaned along with the magnifluxing but it is far better to find the cracks before you start spending money on machine work.

Concerning the pistons, remember that CMPs like yours and mine use domed pistons and domed pistons will not work on the head designed for flat topped pistons. The domed heads will work with flat topped pistons but you loose a lot of compression/power. Flattop vs Domed heads:





When I rebuilt my HUP engine the head had numerous cracks in the valve seats and as the only NOS head I could get was flat topped, when they bored the cylinders went over to flat top pistons.

Cheers Phil

PS all the photos and more are over on my website, still need to do some work on the Overhaul pages and index the page better.

[Dave Mills]

Nice pictures of your new shed, always good to get our treasures in out of the weather. The Gantry that you have in one of the photos is just what I am after, is it possible for you to pass on a name, supplier etc or even point me in the right direction.

Cheers,

Dave.

[motto (RIP)]

Hi Scott
In regards to rust. It can be very deceptive as it takes up several times the volume of the original metal so often looks far worse than it is.
I had a 230 cubic inch Dodge side valve engine that had water in the cylinders for years when I got it and the rust so bad it was like someone had poured corn flakes into it. There were stalactites in the cylinders and I pulled a sleeve in half when driving out a piston (it had been rebuilt at one time) After reconditioning, that engine now powers my 6x6 Weapons Carrier.
Phil seems to be on top of the stovebolt six stuff so I won't butt in again.
Like many others I will be very interested to follow your progress so keep the updates coming.

Cheers

David

[Dave Mills]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Hi Dave,

Here is a link to the Hare and Forbes website page. They have a showroom in Melbourne. They also do two different deals with these gantries.

You can either just get the gantry itself or the gantry + girder trolley + 1 ton chain block in a complete package.

It is also height adjustable from 2.5 - 3.6 meters with a 1 ton capacity.

I wouldn't be without one.

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Mobile-Girder-Rail

Thanks Scott have done a lot of dealing with Hare & Forbes just overseen $900,000 worth of machinery purchased from them. Will contact Steve tomorrow, thanks for the heads up.

Dave.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

Have faith and let the engine really soak for a while. Have you dropped the pan to look up at the conditions of the cylinder bores? Watch out when you drop the pan even after you have drained it there may well be two or so quarts of oil up in the dipper troughs.

Picture is of testing the nozzle aim on one of my engines but you can see the troughs hold oil. These troughs are also a surprise when you turn an engine over on an engine rotisserie think the engine is drained, only to have it pour out on your feet.

When you drained the transmission was there a layer of water? Or really milky looking gear lube? As to the layer of sludge to be expected if the transmission has sat without gears turning for any length of time. Looks good though can you spin the gears yet to see if all the teeth are there? All the transmission bearings are available.

Keep us posted

Cheers Phil

[Lynn Eades]

But the engine now turns free?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

You have added another thing to list of things to check on stuck engine, think this one falls under check the simple stuff first, but who would have thunk of engine won't turn because the transmission or flywheel is stuck.

Yes the critters love to climb into the bellhousing and build nests. Years ago my HUPs clutch suddenly started slipping, one weekend to the next, pull the transmission and discovered evidence of a mouse nest splattered all over the inside of the housing, but the real problem was there was mouse nest material wedged in at the fulcrum of the clutch fingers. What I surmise was that when I pushed the clutch in to start the engine the mouse nest was thrown outward and some of it wedged there, causing the clutch to slip.

Which type of engine stand were you thinking about? I made test stand for the Chev engine that has proved so useful that I now have 4 or 5 of them sitting around with engines on them. If your interested take a look at evolution of the test stand at http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/EngineTesting.htm I made the stand so it could also handle flat head V8s.

Keep us posted on your progress, great to hear the engine is free and turning.

Cheers Phil

[Ryan]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

I am only having the machining done by the machine shop all the assembly I will be doing myself, even though I have never done this sort of thing before I thought that seeing how I will be the one maintaining it, I should know how everything should work and is assembled together.

Scott.

That's sound logic Scott. Well done.