My Blitz's

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

You have added another thing to list of things to check on stuck engine, think this one falls under check the simple stuff first, but who would have thunk of engine won't turn because the transmission or flywheel is stuck.

Yes the critters love to climb into the bellhousing and build nests. Years ago my HUPs clutch suddenly started slipping, one weekend to the next, pull the transmission and discovered evidence of a mouse nest splattered all over the inside of the housing, but the real problem was there was mouse nest material wedged in at the fulcrum of the clutch fingers. What I surmise was that when I pushed the clutch in to start the engine the mouse nest was thrown outward and some of it wedged there, causing the clutch to slip.

Which type of engine stand were you thinking about? I made test stand for the Chev engine that has proved so useful that I now have 4 or 5 of them sitting around with engines on them. If your interested take a look at evolution of the test stand at http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/EngineTesting.htm I made the stand so it could also handle flat head V8s.

Keep us posted on your progress, great to hear the engine is free and turning.

Cheers Phil

[Ryan]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

I am only having the machining done by the machine shop all the assembly I will be doing myself, even though I have never done this sort of thing before I thought that seeing how I will be the one maintaining it, I should know how everything should work and is assembled together.

Scott.

That's sound logic Scott. Well done.

[Bob McNeill]

Scott, recently had a 216 rebuilt and Parry,s in Sydney did the job. remetalled the rods, fitted semi finished Main Brgs [supplied by Ross Prince ] and tunnel bored to suit 0.020 grind on shaft, bored and sleeved as required to 0.020 to suit my supplied cast pistons [ flat top ] shimmed rods and mains to original specs [ 3 shims each side ] Balanced. cost $6,000. Reason for going back to original was, previous engine lasted 16 MILES following rebuild by reputable firm. problem con rods machined off centre and different lengths [ by 1/8" ] not tunnel bored forced crankshaft to flex, then we found shaft they fitted was not for that year model. They no longer trade and we never found original shaft. only the block and pistons are recoverable. $3,600 wasted

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

While your waiting for some to walk out the shop and try some bolts to get the size and thread count to pulling the harmonic & pulley assembly. Take some time to carefully clean the threads in the pulley.

As many of these have a rubber cushion I would not use solvent or penetrating oil. I used a small spiral wire brush in a drill to clean the threads then chased it with tread tap.

Also be careful when reinstalling don't hammer on the crank hooks they will bend down and you will not be able to use the crank or the crank will not release when the engine starts. I made a tool for reinstalling the pulley that I will photograph (once my camera is repaired).

When you get the pulley assembly off you will probably find that their is a grove worn where it seals. There are Speedy Sleeves just for fixing this issue. Cheap $6.32 US NAPA Part # 600-2016.

See photo to confirm we are talking about same bolts and assembly.

Cheers Phil

PS- Just checked the pulley damper pulling thread - ones on mine are 3/8" x 16 thread.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

Thanks for the progress update.

When you install the new or old throttle pivot shaft remember that it goes through into the water jacket so you want to use a good hard set sealant and a star type lock washer. After a rebuild on my C60S years ago I had the pivot unscrew itself and fall out first sign of the problem was the engine went to idle I pulled over and the truck was peeing antifreeze on the ground.

The bolts that hold the camshaft retainer should come out with a fairly small force small socket on a 1/4 drive should do it.

My HUP shocks were like yours when got it back in 1978 every now and then I have checked them to see if like your they have resistance in both directions through the full sweep. Back then I had an old timer tell me that if they didn't get sloppy or weak at the end of the stroke don't do anything. Modern hydraulic shock fluid may not be compatible with the seals. So I have left mine alone and they still work.

They work enough that the only problem I've ever had is eventually braking the welds on the shock links. In each case remove the link reground the weld and rewelded them. Luckily mine are the all metal ends on the links.

Cheers Phil

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Just a small update.


Can't seem to find a socket small enough to fit through the holes in the cam gear.

Scott the holes are probably designed for tube spanners.

[Jeff Gordon]

Hi Scott, you can borrow my engine stand if you like. I haven't used it in 10 years so I won't miss it.
Jeff

[motto (RIP)]

Hi Scott
The shocker links on your truck appear to be the late war standard US type and as such the ball ends should be interchangeable with Studebaker 6x6 ball ends. These can be pressed out of the eye end and replaced or alternately some people cut and join the Stude links to make them the right length.
I have NOS ball ends here $7.50 ea

David