110 Volts Power Supply

[Bob Carriere]

On previous emails to Peter S..... on this side of the pond....

you wrote:

This is for the #2 power supply.......for a Canadian Mark III .........PS are they all the same?????

pin1 -12v heaters, -12v dynamotor & gnd
pin2 i/c speech
pin3 +12v heaters & relay
pin4 +12v vibrator & dynamotor
pin5 signal
pin6 -12v vibrator

If working only from the vibrator it is advisable not to power the i/c, A set & B set all at once as it loads the psu. Besides, there's nothing like the scream of a well lubed dynamotor.

Had to delete part of my message previous as it did not make any sense.

What I am trying to do with the above information is verify/confirm that the 12 volts cables from the CPP-2 PS are of the correct polarity because the ends that connect to the CPP-2 PS are not clearly indicated. I will use a simple continuity tester to check out pin numbers and clearly mark my cables for future reference


Again many thanks.

Bob C.

[Bob Carriere]

Went through the earlier posting on the Wireless forum and found a lot of information that answers all my questions...... now that I have my hands in to the sets the answers make a lot more sense.

Creating the wireless forum was definitely a good suggestion.

I will proceed with caution and try not to send smoke signals.

Need to find someone in the area for tube testing..... especially the 110v PS rectifier tubes.........

Thanks everyone.

Bob C

[Bruce MacMillan]

Bob, it sounds like you have things in hand.

I wouldn't worry about the 6 pin connector on the psu. There isn't much reference to it's use other than the audio/signalling pins. The pins that have the +12v from the regular battery cable are not connected internally.

Perhaps when the AC psu was developed they thought there was a need to buzz the operator, maybe as part of an intercom system ( or to notify of a brew up).

As to the variac, I use it to avoid the instant on inrush current to the transformer. More important is to keep the ac voltage at 110v max which is a lot lower than most line voltages. It only takes 5-10 seconds to dial the correct voltage. No reason to wait any longer.

Yes, get the tubes tested before applying power. As Chris said if one shorts it can turn a rare psu into a cheap boat anchor.

[Bob Carriere]

So I scored a Hickok TV-7 fully operational and calibrated tube tester.

Now I can't wait for it to get here.

Bob C

[Bruce MacMillan]

Excellent, that' a good tester. I have a "C" version that was made in Canada by Stark. There is very little difference between the various models, A,B,C & D except the "C" model comes with an adapter assy for English valves.

If you haven't already done it you should use the schematic & an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the windings. If one is open there's no use in proceeding further.