Humber FV1611(A)

[FV1611A]

Sorry for being absent from the site chaps, but I am delighted to state that 13BK33 has come back to life.

I am unawares of how long it is since she has run, but it has been many, possibly many, many years.

It took some time to get her to breath, but after a lot of wheezing, coughing and spluttering she actually turned over and then eventually ran and ticked over nicely.

A true testament to the Rolls Royce engineering and the condition of her electrics.

I must confess that whilst the lockers have perished, inside she is more like a time capsule, preserved from the elements by her armoured cloak.

I even had the windscreen wipers working.

This is a major chapter for me and her restoration, which has now eradicated the 'Will she ever start' question.

I hope the video can be viewed by everyone and a side shot of her stood in the sunshine ticking over.

Upwards and onwards.

[FV1611A]

Clive do you happen to know the gauge / thickness of the original material used for the side lockers and rear wheel arches by chance.

Your image above states 1.6mm, which is 16gauge. Looking at my NOS panels I haven't measured yet but suspect they are either 18gauge (1.27mm) or 20gauge (0.953mm).

Do any of your documents on file quote such specifics.

I know from physically seeing yours that the thicker steel is much more sensible and robust and I am tempted to follow your lead with my lockers.

I have some of the panels from the front lockers as you know in varying states of condition and would use these as templates.

I think that one of the reasons why these panels rot so easily is because of the thin metal and having folded edges for strength, which in turn trap moisture. Thicker metal won't allow folded edges to be neat and slender meaning that the flaps and lids wouldn't fit over the panels below?

I may also need a Humber to measure from, albeit the original angle framework on the hull will be a good starting point.

Thoughts?

Cheers

[FV1611A]

I have a selection of some original panels to use as a guide and template and also have measured up to produce some simple CAD details in 2D.

The first item to be made was a mirror of the front top part of the rear lockers, which came out pretty good.

More panels to follow in due course.

[FV1611A]

The red light is staying lit on my control panel.

Belts are tight!

I need to run some checks on the generator output and generator panel, but wondered if people had had similar experiences with their RR B engines.

I have a Generator and Panel. Both No1 Mk1.

Ta

[Richard Coutts-Smith]

The points in your Generator Panel probably need a good clean. They tend to "varnish" up being in a sealed unit. A bit of wet/dry may not good be enough as the coating may be quite hard, I happened to have a small diamond file which finally did the trick. It took an Industrial Elec. mate of mine 8 hours to workout how the electrical system was supposed to work and what the problem was, the first thing we had done was clean the points, but at the end of the day it turned out that we had only polished them, not cleaned them.
Got caught with a charging issue on Champ last year, the yellow and red dash bezells had been swapped, which was surprisingly confusing......
Rich.

[FV1611A]

Richard

I've now taken off the generator and it will work like a motor when connected to a 24v supply, as suggested in the EMER.

I suspect the issue could now be with the generator panel, so I will look into your suggestion.

The Piggy had been stood for years before I bought her, so it's possible and worth further exploration.

I'll update the thread once I have done some more investigating.

In the meantime thanks for the comments

[FV1611A]

After some trials and tribulations we now have a Pig that's charging.

Initially at 34v output, but after a session of adjustment on the voltage regulator and the cut out I have 27.5v.

Just need to do a full 'Load' test when lights all connected etc to check voltage output and current regulator working as they should.

Moving onto brakes next