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  #1  
Old 10-04-14, 13:55
tankbarrell tankbarrell is offline
Adrian Barrell
 
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If anybody needs these, I can do them as required. I would suggest EN8 and I would thread them in a capstan using a Coventry diehead, this would give perfect threads.
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  #2  
Old 10-04-14, 15:38
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Adrian, can you explain the EN system? I remember (as a young fella) the steel crank to have for a Lotus twin cam was made from EN40B.
If I was over there, I'd be taking up your offer.
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  #3  
Old 10-04-14, 18:37
tankbarrell tankbarrell is offline
Adrian Barrell
 
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Lynn, it's the old British system BS970, superseded some years ago by a newer version with different codes.

Freecutting MS that you mentioned was EN1A and is now 230M07 where the 07 indicates carbon content, i.e 0.07 %. EN8 is now 080M40 so 0.4%. Carbon content is a good indicator of a steels ability to be hardened.

EN40B is now 722M24 and is a 3% chromium molydenum nitriding steel that when nitrogen hardened (nitriding) has a very hard wear resistant case and a tough (60tons) core. Ideal for a crank!
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Old 10-04-14, 22:06
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RichardT10829 RichardT10829 is offline
Richard Harrison
 
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Just thinking out loud, how much load can you put on the brake rod in reality? Do you think the small lever that is the brake pedal has sufficient length to pull a set of threads ?

I am only asking as I have access to a load of mild rod I understand the need for a greater tensile if the rod worked in compression

It's a shame that I need to go order some EN8
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  #5  
Old 10-04-14, 23:43
Lew Skelton Lew Skelton is offline
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Default Mild steel rod

I don't want to come in late and blow it to bits but I used shiny mild steel rod for my long brake rods, I didn't think that the threads would ever pull off or the mild steel rod to be inferior, the clevis's are screwed on about an inch and a bit with a locknut so its not like they are compromised by being held by 3-4 turns. I cut my own thread using hand tools and the rods are working fine. Also made the engine to rear plate and clutch rods with mild as well as the accelerator rod. When cutting the old rods I replaced (as parts were excessively rusty, I cut them with a hacksaw) then re used sections I did not notice any increase in hardness. My carrier has been getting around fine. Im not saying take my advice as im just a mechanic, but if you have a supply of mild it would poss do.
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Old 11-04-14, 00:23
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Lew it may be fine with mild steel (aren't some LP2 rods 1/2 inch?) but in this day and age of blame and litigation, I wouldn't knowingly be using an inferior component in my brakes.

Richard for the money you have spent on your carrier already, the rod is very cheap.

Adrian, Thank you for the explanation.
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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  #7  
Old 11-04-14, 09:16
tankbarrell tankbarrell is offline
Adrian Barrell
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardT10829 View Post
I am only asking as I have access to a load of mild rod I understand the need for a greater tensile if the rod worked in compression
That's a contradiction!

I'm sure mild steel would be fine though, normal bright mild steel is EN3B, it has a tensile strength of about 80% that of EN8.
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Old 11-04-14, 09:22
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RichardT10829 RichardT10829 is offline
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My thoughts being if the brake rod pushed the shoes on the rod would flex, and the need for higher tensile steel would be required.... Of course I could be way off as my understanding is negligible in this area.

I have dropped you a PM Adrian.
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  #9  
Old 11-04-14, 09:35
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
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Richard, All the rods pull, none push.
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Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991
Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6.
Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6
Jeep Mb #135668
So many questions....
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