Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

The transfer case shifting assembly is now back on, and with the help of new detent balls & springs, it selects freely. I will remove only the lever, when it comes time to put the cab on the chassis. Where can I buy a new shifter knob? I bought one from Macs some months ago, but it has a thread that is far too small.

I got interested in the wiring harness today, so decided to remove some of the seperate pieces out of the large bag they came in. I wanted to consider installing anything that runs along the chassis. When I removed them all, I found one I wanted, and opened the seal on that particular bag. Got the fright of my life when one of the numbered tags fell off the wire it was wrapped around. I guess over 12 months in a shed which can heat up to the high 40s (celsius) has weakened the gum on the tags! I very carefully reattached that tag, checked all the others on that section, and ever so gently replaced it back into the plastic bag. No further attempt will be made to open any of the bags until I settle on a way to secure those tiny little tags. That could have been disasterous if I had knocked several of the tags off before I discovered the situation. Yikes! Close call.

Gentlemen, I need assistance with some information on two areas.
Firstly, can anyone help me with photos of the part which holds the emergency brake band/shoe to its bracket. I mean the bit on the mid point of the shoe, furtherest away from the opening/closing ends. It can't be much of a mechanism, but I cannot find a diagram or wrawing in the manual. Never had that part, and don't want to try making anything until I know what should be there. Typically, there is no image of this in the manual.
Secondly, I would like to see what the linkage to the PTO looks like. Once again, never had that part, and the info about it in the manual is rudimentary at best. Measurements and closeups of the ends, would be very much appreciated.

Friday I from Mothers house, and brought back a quantity of tools which had belonged to both my Father and my Brother. This morning I arranged them, along with my own tools, into the tool cabinet draws. It was a considerably larger job than I had expected, and was time consuming to say the least. Some of those tools (Dads mainly) are older than I am, some very much older, dating back to the 1930s & 1940s. I hope my Son takes finds them as valuable and worthwhile as I do. Time will tell.

It just occured to me that the rear drive shaft on my junked truck might be an ideal candidate to have shortened to fit the restoration truck. There is always the possibility that it is already too short. Wish I had thought to remove it this morning, but it can wait until Wednesday.

[T Creighton]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Firstly, can anyone help me with photos of the part which holds the emergency brake band/shoe to its bracket. I mean the bit on the mid point of the shoe, furtherest away from the opening/closing ends. It can't be much of a mechanism, but I cannot find a diagram or wrawing in the manual. Never had that part, and don't want to try making anything until I know what should be there. Typically, there is no image of this in the manual.
.

Hi Tony, Great looking work. Is this pic any help.
Cheers
Terry

[T Creighton]

Hi again Tony, I can take a photo of the other side of the band tomorrow if that helps although there are some details on page N5 in the MB-F1 manual.
Cheers again,
Terry

[Private_collector]

Hi Terry, thanks for the reply.
The part I need to see goes onto the portion of brake shoe backing band which is not visible in the drawing you posted. Section N doesnt show me the detail I need to make a new one.

[T Creighton]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Hi Terry, thanks for the reply.
The part I need to see goes onto the portion of brake shoe backing band which is not visible in the drawing you posted. Section N doesnt show me the detail I need to make a new one.

Tony
Here are pics of the other side. It looks like it's made of high tensile steel.I can give you the dimensions if you decide to make one. The little pressed in gussets on each side might be a bit tricky to get right to your high standards.
Regards Terry.
ps The pic don't seem to want to upload. Will try later on. Also a PM to Lynn.

[Private_collector]

Cheers to Lynn & Terry!

From info supplied, and photo/s to come, I think we are in business. I have never actually seen that particular part......in real life. If I had the forethought to do so, I could have asked to peek under the skirt of any number of Ford CMPs at shows, but I never gave a moments consideration to the topic. It's hard to think straight when salivating at well restored MVs anyway.

Must be about time I filled the master cylinder and bled the brake system too. Buying brake fluid is on my to do list for this Saturday. Also spoke with a lubricants supplier a number of weeks ago, about a higher viscosity substitute for diffs & gear cases that he recommended. He feels it may be a better proposition for older applications where parts have some wear. Not cheap stuff, but could be a good option, particularly with added benefit of quietening any whine. So they say.

[T Creighton]

Good Morning Tony,
I found my camera was set at max resolution and the files were too big to upload.I think I have it sorted now.
Let me know if you want any measurements.
Cheers,
Terry

[Lynn Eades]

Tony,(see the bolt and spring on the rhs of jeep picture) I am not familiar with your truck, but in saying that, the mount is fairly simple. The anchor I would call it, probably has a hole in the side (centre) This takes a spring in the hole. the spring goes in, and then the band slides on the square over the spring (which you have to compress to get the band assy. on)
A bolt with a tie wire drilled head screws in through the band into the anchor casting. when the other end is all sorted, this bolt is adjusted so that the lining is just clear of the... I'll call it the drum. When the hand brake is applied, the band is pulled in onto the drum against the spring. When it is released the spring moves the band back against the bolt head, giving the lining and drum a working clearance (the amount the bolt head allows the spring to push it away) The bolt is located by the tie wire.
The aim When you have the other end sorted out, is to have minimum travel of the h.b. lever while also having the lining clear,and the drum turning freely (which is important from a fuel consumption/ power/happy truck/ happy driver point of view.
Find a Dodge military manual (1/2 or 3/4 ton) or parts book, for a decent picture.
Hope that helps?
Hi Terry and Louise