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Cleaned up the radiator today.
Radiator bare 1.jpg Radiator bare 2.jpg I bought this one from my Late friend, Paddy. He only asked for the scrap value, $60.00. It had been recored a long time ago, and not really used since that was done. Still has a light oil inside. Well, it DID have a light oil inside. I flushed it out when checking for any gross leaks. Radiator bare 3.jpg The lower water necks are a nice piece of work. Whats with the screw heads on each corner? Surely they are not functional! Radiator painted 1.jpg After a lick of paint. The wind came up jast after applying the last coat, so I may knock the top off, and give one more spray, next weekend. There is a small plate attached to top tank, which says Maryborough Radiator Services, or something like that. If you look at the very left of the radiator hanging upside down, you can make out the plate. An aluminium sticker with business name was on the very top panel too. I removed it prior to scrubbing, and will reattach it later. The recore must have been done a very long time ago. The phone number had 4 digits in total. There would now be 8 digits. The business has either ceased trading or changed names & address. Radiator drain cocks.jpg Even the drain taps are OK to re-use. I cleaned them prior to this shot. I will buy a new radiator cap and hoses, when I get a chance. ![]()
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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The freshen of that radiator can only be described as sexy.
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Blitz books. |
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I am keen to hear of any experiences members may have with using DOT5 brake fluid. That is the silicone fluid. It is not compatable with systems which have previously run on Dots 2,3 4, or 5.1 unless the entire brake system is flushed entirely free of the others. It doen't mix well with others. Bit like me at school, all those years ago.
![]() I have put a lot of time into researching the pros & cons of all options, but would like to hear first hand reports of satisfaction.......or disappointment for that matter. I intend to replace the fluid regularly, and was thinking 2nd yearly would suffice. Because my entire hydraulic system is brand new, and has never had any fluid through, now is the time to commit to one specific type. I am particularly pleased that DOT 5 does NOT damage paint. While that is not sole motivation, it sure is a desirable attribute. I know at some point there will be leak/s. Maybe sooner, maybe later. I am about to discover exactly how well the flares on the steel lines actually are. A bit nervous about it too. Here is a VERY informative dissertation on DOT 5: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/techn...luid/Fluid.htm The author seems very pleased with his choice, and has even done a range of 'tests' prior to making the selection. A bit overboard really! And I thought I was bad, jeeeeezus!!! ![]() Nearly forgot to mention that I have ordered a custom made stamp with a small ford logo, to use on items like fan belts, radiator hoses etc, which are hopefully good copies but not original Ford product. There wont be a part number, but the stamps are only a few dollars, so I thought I might have a little 'play' and see how it works out. I hope Ford Motor Co. spell my name right on the legal papers!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) Last edited by Private_collector; 27-05-14 at 11:17. Reason: Addit. |
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Hi Tony
First question- Have any of your cylinders been sleeved? If so silicone fluid may cause a leak problem. Don't know if this is still true but for years the company that I use would not warranty their sleeved cylinders if silicone fluid was used. Don't know if this is still true. What I was told was that the silicone fluid would actually leak along the out side of the sleeve between the sleeve and cylinder body. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
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Hi Phil,
Good point. No, my cylinders are all new replacements. There is nothing of significant vintage or refurbished. One of the sources I read (may even be the one I had supplied link to) talks about how persistent minor leaks actually slowed to stop, with use of silicone DOT 5 fluid. I think that could be taken a number of ways. One, fluid may be slightly higher viscosity, not able to leak out. Or two, the fluid caused some swelling to a flexible component such as a cylinder boot. That would be a worry, however I don't recall the event stated in a negative context. ![]()
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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When I rebuilt my C15a brake system I got new wheel cylinders and the master cyl. was sleeved in SS. All lines are new SS and rubber flex. Going on 4 years .... no leak no problems.
Each Spring after sitting for months in the sea container it only needs one pump of the peddle to bring it up again. I may actually flush and reset the system this year for the first time. I use the surplus USA military purple brake fluid. ***** on the flaring of new brake lines may I suggest you buy the best flaring tool you can afford it will save you time, material and a lot of aggravation. Cheers PS.... have you heard of the guy addicted to brake fluid...? claims he can stop any time !!!!!
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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Thanks Bob, I like the sounds of that testimonial.
Dont have worries about my brake flaring, I didnt do it. I gave that job to the local hydraulics shop. I thought I had replied to you posting yesterday, but for some reason it did not appear. I may have had another internet connection problem. Should have checked it came up before I turned the computer off. Sorry.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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