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#1
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Good idea. If I had thought to do that with the bit of chassis the crap engine came on it would have saved me a lot of welding to make a trolley. Too bad I ground all the rivets away and seperated the bits.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#2
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TONY4101 - Copy.jpg TONY4105 - Copy.jpg TONY4106 - Copy.jpg
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. |
#3
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Just out of interest (and for the non-believers!) here's the full flow system shown in the CMP manual. A bushing separates the vertical and horizontal passages, and a third passage is drilled for the filter return. This third passage will be found on all CMP motors but not on standard flatheads.
img146 - Copy.jpg img146 - Copy (2).jpg img147 - Copy.jpg Decades later the hot rodders developed a similar modification using a grub screw to separate the vertical and horizontal passages, and a third passage drilled manually. Evidently they're not aware it had already been done on the CMP. As mentioned though it's always plugged in my experience (but not with a bolt like I did on my first blitz!) img150 - Copy.jpg 1209sr-07-z+oil-filters-for-flatheads+ - Copy (2).jpg
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. |
#4
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Tony W, awesome pics and idea thank you very much.
Tony B, sorry for the small hyjacking of your thread, keep up the excellent work.
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Blitz books. |
#5
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Ryan, don't give it a thought, mate.
There is nothing posted here that I wouldn't find interesting. Everything written on MLU adds to someones education. Often my own! Don't apologise for making things interesting & informative. In Lybia hijacking gets ya killed.......here on MLU it makes life fun. I like this hijacking! ![]()
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#6
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Some time ago, I had a couple of enquiries regarding colors available pre-mixed in the type of paint I am using. That was too long ago for me to remember who those guys were, please excuse my memory.
Barrier Camoflage Codes.jpg While at the paint shop on Wednesday, I acquired an up to date list of colors presently available off the shelf. My color is 1166 code. If using this type of paint, I whole heartedly recommend addition of the applicable hardener. My chosen ratio is 15% hardener by volume. Be aware all colors are available in 4lt ONLY, so far as I am aware. Mind you, 4lt doesn't go that far, so wouldn't be that much of an issue.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
#7
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When does a bendix starter spring need replacement? Is it only when it has broken, or does it wear in other ways?
The clutch pressure plate has now been reassembled, and I have moved on to disassembling and cleaning the starter motor. In fact, the cleaning is all but completed. Starter body and rear plate are painted. Front plate has been cleaned but left in bare metal finish. The brushes and comutator are in good condition, and should not require attention, but it would be wise to fit fresh brushes, regardless. Bought a 1mt (3+ ft) length of radiator hose yesterday. Cost only $40, from Autobarn. Will take a few photos of the starter motor pieces, tomorrow. I would welcome any advice about the bendix question, and what type of grease to lube the starter bushings with!
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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