Richie's Mk1 Restoration

[RichardT10829]

If the drums start at 14" looks like they have been skimmed once and had an 1/8th taken out. Yet the shoes have no shims underneath ? So if I was to get another 1/8 taken off to correct the drums do I need to factor in the previous metal takenout plus what I have taken out this time ?? How thick do the shoes need to be then ?

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by RichardT10829

If the drums start at 14" looks like they have been skimmed once and had an 1/8th taken out. Yet the shoes have no shims underneath ? So if I was to get another 1/8 taken off to correct he drums do I need to factor in the previous metal takenout plus what I have taken out this time ?? How thick do the shoes need to be then ?

The Canadian manual UC-F1 quotes 14" so looks like the drums might have been skimmed. Bad practise to shim between lining and shoe, best solution is thicker linings, you know the standard lining thickness from the manual. The brake reliners will work it out from there. They can profile to fit the drum.

I am surprised you never inspected the brakes earlier on, a crucial area, being steering and brakes. Check the hub bearings for pitting too, due to condensation and standing around.

[RichardT10829]

The bearings are all good, have had them all out and cleaned then.

I knew the drums were pitted but thought there was little I could do about it...

[kevin powles]

Rich, your drums look quite thin, as I recall I think there is a tell tale chamfer on the inside which is there on new drums and gradually wears out or is lost with remachined. What I would do is get some new shoes in before next week and take it easy at the show. I have a set of drums true and smooth available but will require oversize shoes, we can talk about this after the show if you are interested.

Your sprockets look like they have seen better days. Something to look at later.

Kevin.

[RichardT10829]

Cheers Kev.

And there was me thinking that there was a fair bit of meat left on them, just over half an inch.

[Lynn Eades]

Richard F. has it right. The brake shop will take the minimum required out, and thickness the oversize linings by radius grinding them to fit the drum.
Check your wheel bearings carefully, fit new inner hub seals, and make sure you remove the tin shields from the axle (6 castle nuts each side) clean inside them, and make sure you clean out the "tell tale" holes, through the backing plates. This shows you if a hub seal has started leaking, so that you can catch it before it gets to the new linings.
Note. the rust pitting has happened to your drums where the linings don't touch them, when your carrier has sat for 25 years at a time. This rough bit tears your linings to bits.
While you are waiting for the drums and linings to get done, I would strip, clean, and re assemble your bisectors (making very sure you assemble them properly. If you get the wedges in the wrong way around, very little travel will be the result. Use a good grease, and be very careful with the alloy housings
You might advise the brake people that this job would maybe be better done with low speed (woven?) linings.

[eddy8men]

rich you could just put the good shoes on the leading edge and the bad ones trailing, then do war and peace and worry about faffing around getting it right after the show when things have calmed down a bit and are back to normal.
I think I have a set of good spare shoes in a truck axle I could bring to the show as a plan B.
the most important thing is to not get too caught up with getting it perfect and just enjoy the show.

rick