How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

That looks like a cab brace, should have matching holes on the frame cross support for the cab.

See in the photo below which is of my Pat 13, 1942 C60S.

w transmission.jpg

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

That's it. I just checked my cab brace and it has the holes. I'm thinking I will be fine with out it. What's your thoughts?

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

You could easily repair it by drilling out the 2 remaining rivets and repalce with a suitable piece of angle iron and some new grade 8 bolts.

On the tool box....... the few tool boxes I have seen were held with J bolts to the frame with a wooden spacer for the rivert heads. Yours must be the delux version. My cab 11 experience is showing.

Where did you get the SCC2 paint.

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

Bob, the plates are 12" x 3" x 1/2". See the first two pictures.

The paint is from McDonald White in Windsor.

I test fitted the drivers side steps and battery tray. Is there supposed to be so much room between the rear of the tray and the frame?

[Jordan Baker]

Couple more progress shots. All the welding has been finished on the cab frame. Its been painted in Por15 and the primer and its final coat of SCC2. I have also started putting on various small brackets again.

[Bob Carriere]

On the battery tray ....... When I reproduced my battery box I opted for installing it lenght wise. First we used an original battery tray as a guide, then designed a battery box that would accommodate a size "35" modern 12 V. battery....but it would only fit lenght wise or 90 degrees to your tray. It allows a closer installation to the frame.

There is archival evidence of mounting the battery box sideways.

I had no choice on my cab 11.... the original in cab battery box soace has been take by the 2 speed T case shifter.

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

Bob, yeah I saw there was the other type of tray. I went with the one I have as that's the info I was able to find for making one. Plus I was able to use an original cover.

I ended up making the hold down rods myself. Welded the rod onto a plate then ground it down to make it look like it had been forged. The ran a die to thread the ends. The picture with the tray shows the rods attached via screws. I went back and riveted them on properly.

The last picture is the new wood stiffener I had made to replace my slightly eaten original. I painted two coats of Por15 on sanding in between. It gave a rock hard finish that will hopefully keep the bugs and moisture out of it for many years to come.