C8A HUW: body dimensional data needed

[Mike K]

I thought that most restorers install the metal timing gear , the metal version is less prone to stripping its teeth Mike

[Jerry Hill]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

I thought that most restorers install the metal timing gear , the metal version is less prone to stripping its teeth Mike

Hi Mike

You're right, but I felt the original gear had worked well for 70 years, so the fibre wheel can't be all bad.

The original gear showed no signs of damage, but after being knocked in the accident the risk of timing gear failure would be higher & the result catastrophic, so I wasn't going to take chances. Thanks to Phil for the advise.

Best

Jerry

[Jerry Hill]

Our trip to the quarry early on Friday bore fruit. A nice straight fan and grill, plus a straight if grubby radiator. The photos show both sides of the banana shaped original and replacement. We'll use the original carrying frame which straightened out nicely.

I've trial fitted the bumper after straightening the passenger side frame damage. I took the opportunity to weld up a crack from a mounting hole. Both the bumper and nudge bar have an appointment with the 30 something ton Press. The nudge bar damage is easily seen. The bumper needs a tweak on both sides to correct action from the distant past.

The radiator carrier straightened out nicely and the front cross member aligns nicely, both are fitted. They will get bolted back properly after we've got the bumper and radiator back. The new fan has had a needle gunning and a coat of paint and scrubbed up nicely.

This week it'll be off to the radiator mender for a refurbish and a re-core, this will be costly. More corrective work on the front panel and split the doors to decide how we'll straighten them. Then it's re-align the A & B posts.

I'm trying to get as much done as possible before the weather gets grim and working outside becomes miserable. So far so good.

Jerry

[Jerry Hill]

A weekend away saw little progress, but the rebuilt radiator is due in one weeks time. When we get it back & fitted we'll be able to move the vehicle about freely and make a start on pulling out the B & A posts respectively.

In the meantime the bumper and associated bits have been straightened on the trusty 60 ton press and refitted to complete that part of the project.

We've decided to repair the trickiest centre (bonnet) part of the front panel. Today we cut off the top section and straightened it out with the trusty press & welded up a split, the trial fit with the bonnet lid is a pass and is put aside for later. We removed the bottom carrier and straightened that also, leaving us with the tricky centre section, which we will cut down into three pieces and do our best to get them back into the right shape, before welding back into a sub assy. We may have to resort to replacing the uprights with new pressings as they are a bit of a mess.

Anyway onward and upwards....

Jerry

[Jerry Hill]

Yesterday I successfully pulled out the B post on the passenger's side, drilling at the point of contact right through the B post. On the rear door side the hole had to be opened up to 2.5 cm to get a nut and socket on the ring bolt and tighten it up. A cargo pull was attached to the A post bulkhead and the ring bolt then steadily pulled until all was lined up as it should be. The rear door shut is perfect. I'll have a go at the driver's side before the w/e, when I'll post some pics.

Pics today show the bonnet and frame completed ready for re-assembly, the passenger wing section with a replacement piece of zintec 2mm sheet ready for fitting. Likewise on the driver's side, which also has the headlight panel straightened out along with the straightened framework tacked ready for the next stage. The next pic shows the centre section of the front panel with the two verticals cut out. After some head scratching we decided the originals are too badly mangled to recover, so we pressed replacement 2mm zintec sheets to the same profile and over the coming weeks we will rework them to match the originals. The same can be said for the bottom section shown on the final pic, we cut off and straightened out the carrier that attaches the front panel to the chassis front cross member.

When we have remade these parts we'll drive the truck sans front panel about five drafty miles to the workshop for the first trial fitting/alignment checks of the various components that make up the front panel and make sure they align to the bulkhead before tacking them and welding up to complete the front panel.

Then there's the doors to be seen to and paint. Some way to go yet.

Jerry

[Jerry Hill]

Today saw the driver's side B post pulled out. Some pics, the first after drilling the post, involved grinding the ring bolt to fit. The nut and socket were attached from the rear side of the post - pic2. A steady but substantial pull got things back to the shape it should be Pic 3. The rear of the B post was plugged with a grommet Pic 4. The finished job ready to weld the two skins together Pic 5.
The rear door shuts as it should, which is all a great relief.
On Monday we collect the radiator and an enormous bill for rebuilding it.
Jerry

[Ken Hughes]

From a panel beaters point of view that damage was quite nasty,looks like your doing everything right,a lot of people would have looked around for another nose cone,well done!.