11 Set stuff

[cletrac (RIP)]

I got this wire reel off a forum member. It's the same as the 11 set one except it doesn't have the brackets to hold the connectors.

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by cletrac

I got this wire reel off a forum member. It's the same as the 11 set one except it doesn't have the brackets to hold the connectors.

I have some spare connectors if you want some

[cletrac (RIP)]

It's starting to look the part. I have about 7 hours into it so far. The ends on the wires that go to the set are offset almost half an inch so the terminals stick out about 1 1/4 ".
There's 4 bolt holes below the bottom gauge that must hold the condensers on the inside. Now to make the switch mounting plates.

[Ron Pier]

Great stuff David and thanks for the pictures you sent me. I'm dead interested in what you do with the doors. Ron

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by cletrac

It's starting to look the part. I have about 7 hours into it so far. The ends on the wires that go to the set are offset almost half an inch so the terminals stick out about 1 1/4 ".
There's 4 bolt holes below the bottom gauge that must hold the condensers on the inside. Now to make the switch mounting plates.

Not wishing to rain on your parade, but the original unit most likely had a plastic (ebonite or Tufnol) panel with the lettering engraved on it. The terminals would be uninsulated and probably BA thread with all the (electrical) metalwork being nickel plated.

Chris.

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Chris Suslowicz

Not wishing to rain on your parade, but the original unit most likely had a plastic (ebonite or Tufnol) panel with the lettering engraved on it. The terminals would be uninsulated and probably BA thread with all the (electrical) metalwork being nickel plated.

Chris.

My measurement of the terminals on my 19 set switchboard (approximately 1/4-25) suggested BA threads and the 0BA nuts I ordered fit perfectly. Since a 11 set component should be earlier than 19 set, it seems reasonable to me that an 11 set switchboard would also be BA threads. My source for the 0BA nuts was http://www.britishfasteners.com/inde...0ba-steel-3665

[cletrac (RIP)]

Chris, in the instructions it says the captive screws holding the panel in place have to be tight because they form part of the electrical circuit. Therefore the panel must be metal. The only part of the circuit would be grounding for the two condensers that are attached to the back side of the panel.
Thanks for deciphering that part of the instructions.
Those lid catches have me scratching my head. They don't look to be spring loaded. Maybe that's why the bottom one in the picture isn't latched. Gravity took over. The catches must be made of spring steel to hold some pressure to not fall open.

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by cletrac

Chris, in the instructions it says the captive screws holding the panel in place have to be tight because they form part of the electrical circuit. Therefore the panel must be metal. The only part of the circuit would be grounding for the two condensers that are attached to the back side of the panel.
Thanks for deciphering that part of the instructions.
Those lid catches have me scratching my head. They don't look to be spring loaded. Maybe that's why the bottom one in the picture isn't latched. Gravity took over. The catches must be made of spring steel to hold some pressure to not fall open.

I suspect the panel is plastic, simply because it would be a lot easier to manufacture that way, and be safer to connect up - touching a battery lead to the panel while connecting up would not cause a short circuit - also it would be more rigid than a thin metal plate. They tended to use uninsulated terminals in non-conducting panels a lot, also it allowed the labels to be engraved and paint filled, rather than having separate labels made and screwed on, and the screws on those cable clips at the bottom would have to go into tapped holes (because nuts on the back of the panel would be impossible).

The condensers will be the block paper type, with mounting lugs on the bottom and probably stud connections on the top.

I think the panel retaining screws have to be tight because there are connections via them between the case and the circuit - if you look at Figure 16 there's a wire to each side from the Regulator (left) and Set (right) negative terminals.

I have some spare parts and spare valve cases for the WS19 and WS18 with that type of retaining clip instead of the toggle clamp variety (also the "spring clip & stud" "hook and stud", etc. There were a lot of variations according to the different manufacturers).

Chris.

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Chris Suslowicz

Not wishing to rain on your parade, but the original unit most likely had a plastic (ebonite or Tufnol) panel with the lettering engraved on it. The terminals would be uninsulated and probably BA thread with all the (electrical) metalwork being nickel plated.

Chris.

Would a ebonite panel of that size, have enough structural strength ? With all of those holes for the meters and the terminal posts and the rest , a ebonite panel would be rather fragile and prone to cracking . Mike

[Mike K]

this may help .............

[cletrac (RIP)]

Plastic or metal? I was thinking along Mike's lines. Plastic in the late 30s stuff was restricted to small parts likely because of the strength issue. That panel is held in place by 2 bolts 10 inches apart and near the edges. The weight of the cables is all hanging off the panel too and would get flopping around in rough conditions.
Chris, have you got a picture of one of those catches?

[things_green]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

Would a ebonite panel of that size, have enough structural strength ? With all of those holes for the meters and the terminal posts and the rest , a ebonite panel would be rather fragile and prone to cracking . Mike

interesting thread, superb job on your recreation David.

I have a portable charging switchboard Mike, very heavily cutaway for the rheostats & meters.
I don't know if its ebonite, plastic, paxoline or something else?
no sign of cracking since '40, or is that '41.
the facia measures 14 1/2" x 15 1/2".

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by things_green

interesting thread, superb job on your recreation David.

I have a portable charging switchboard Mike, very heavily cutaway for the rheostats & meters.
I don't know if its ebonite, plastic, paxoline or something else?
no sign of cracking since '40, or is that '41.
the facia measures 14 1/2' x 15 1/2".

Brent

hi, that item of yours looks to be in mint cond. It may have been stored and never used .Did you restore it ?

Don't know what it is for ???????????

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by things_green

interesting thread, superb job on your recreation David.

I have a portable charging switchboard Mike, very heavily cutaway for the rheostats & meters.
I don't know if its ebonite, plastic, paxoline or something else?
no sign of cracking since '40, or is that '41.
the facia measures 14 1/2" x 15 1/2".

here is one like yours Brent 9.25 on the movie

https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/F05239/