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  #1  
Old 27-03-15, 20:01
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Bob and I have speculated that the added plates served to stiffen the floor plate against flex caused by the cab rear panel. I have no proof of this theory.
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  #2  
Old 27-03-15, 22:30
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Worth there weight in gold....

One of the few cab 12 modification that makes sense...... it does keep the rear corner of the cab from flexing...... and doors from sagging.

Early into the cab 11 it was advised to remove the doors when the roof was removed as the back wall had very little to hold it up by its own.

I retro fitted them on my cab 11 which Grant maintains is now a cab 11.5.... I used some of the cab 12 front sheet metal and fitted the extra cab 12 radiator cross bar..and will fit some Hammond reinforcements on the corners of the wooden frame work for the cab...... then Dynamatts inside the doors and Heatshield inside the engine cover..... and may use cab 12 mirror arms instead of rigid cab 11 arms...... Oh my rebuilt doors are reinforced cab 12 also..... with special sideways battery box a la cab 13.....

Mongrel it is......

Cheers
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Last edited by Bob Carriere; 27-03-15 at 22:52.
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  #3  
Old 27-03-15, 23:45
Gordon Yeo Gordon Yeo is offline
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Default Gold?

Thanks for the response guys. The re-enforcing certainly does make perfect sense but, my gosh those are a huge piece of metal.

After working on the #11 cab and #12 cab trucks the nightmare of bad design and "what were they thinking" gives one an appreciation of the beauty and simplicity of the #13 cab design.
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  #4  
Old 11-04-15, 22:15
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Jacek Nitkiewicz Jacek Nitkiewicz is offline
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End of very busy day.
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  #5  
Old 12-04-15, 11:50
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Jacek Nitkiewicz Jacek Nitkiewicz is offline
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This seal looks like made from cork , can anyone confirm? Is it possible to buy it anywhere?
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  #6  
Old 12-04-15, 12:11
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Jacek Nitkiewicz Jacek Nitkiewicz is offline
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I want to send steering gear for check up, how to remove steeing wheel and rod ? Removing of nut 1 didn't do anything , should I use a hammer to get wheel out?
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  #7  
Old 29-04-15, 03:36
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Gordons Gordons is offline
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Default steering wheel puller

one of these two types of puller should work, the two holes on the steering wheel should accept the long bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacek Nitkiewicz View Post
I want to send steering gear for check up, how to remove steeing wheel and rod ? Removing of nut 1 didn't do anything , should I use a hammer to get wheel out?
Attachment 73064 Attachment 73065
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1941 C15A 12 Cab
1943 Dodge WC 51
1953 M38A1
1943 Willys MBT 1/4 Ton Trailer sn 25515 Del 4-43
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1942 UC MK1
1944 HUP MACH ZL 2
1945 DODGE WP/APT 26-7-45
1942 F15A
1952 M38 CDN101711
1952 M38 CDN101360

Last edited by Gordons; 18-09-24 at 03:47.
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  #8  
Old 12-04-15, 12:12
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is online now
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Jacek,

Yes, the original seals were cork. The Filling Station in the US are able to supply these. Most parts suppliers offer replacements in Neoprene rubber though, so it might be easier to get those.
I bought rubber ones off Ebay UK.

I think Chevrolet switched to rubber in post-war production as well (?)

Alex

Cork:
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000014x

rubber:
http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/p...7&i=10275|||||

https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail..._8_Pieces.html
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  #9  
Old 12-04-15, 14:34
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Jacek Nitkiewicz Jacek Nitkiewicz is offline
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Thanks Alex, I think I will order cork ones to be as close to original as possible.
I want to order also gasket set for the engine from them. I think part no. FS-181 is correct one for my engine.
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