post-war OD 24087 Paint question

[Jes Andersen]

After trying to get an accurate code, I found a panel that we could sheet off all the paint over the original. I had Lordco scan the piece from my M37CDN and mix up a PPG brand code 931126 in single stage urethane. Its gloss but matches pretty well for the factory dark green on my M37CDN. I will have to try having some flattening agent added when I start on the body panels but it looks good on the wheels. The code is specific to PPG but you could get a sample made and see how close it is to your colour.

[Jack Innes]

Thank you Jes, some will be mixed this week & we will see how close it is to my original colour.

[Jes Andersen]

Hope it will get you close, but if not, see if anyone in your area has a camera that they use to scan the colour that you want to match. Out here, Lordco does it at the body shop that painted my wheels and mixed a sample for my approval. Once we decided it was close enough, the body shop used the codes that Lordco provided to make up enough to do 6 wheels and lock rings. It's gloss but looks way better than the mess they were in before the sandblast and repaint. This is all new territory for me, as body and paint are not my forte'. New paints and processes require some study on my part, but thanks to the contributors on this forum and a few others that I haunt the learning is underway. Now if I just had more time and a few less projects...

[Robin Craig]

having been down this painful route before with cameras and scanners and military paints I warn you that the technology is not best suited for "our" vehicles as the paint it is designed to match are high gloss paints.

That is where it all goes off the rails, trust me.

Close will be good, a match is a wet dream fantasy.

I took a vehicle fresh off the boat from the Uk with a fresh paint job and didnt get a a match by a long chalk.

Went by eye on a colour chart and nailed it

R

[Frank v R]

Jack , what brand paint are you using ? some have an A & B with the same code with a slightly different shade,

[Jack Innes]

Frank,
I am having some mixed to the PPG code Jes suggested. This is yet to be seen. I found much information on mil code 24087 & it seems to boil down to two shades as you indicated. The dividing point according to some is before & after Viet Nam.

Robin,
I know what you mean regarding the scanner system. It cannot handle flat or semi-gloss paint. & I recently went through the same process trying to match the shiny paint on a dark green1911 Cadillac. The scanner code was completely off shade. It seems green is particularly difficult to match as well.


Incidentally, yesterday I performed step one in the manual on replacing the front brake pads on the truck; it simply states "remove engine" !

[r.morrison]

Jack. If you have a faded piece of the color, spray a clear coat of gloss or semi gloss urethane over it and that will pull the color out. Then compare it to the areas that have NOT been exposed to the sun. The color samples were all "printed" in a flat sheen and still are today.
Being in the business, your safer trying to match the color than trying to go with code numbers. For what it's worth.....Robert

[Jes Andersen]

It will be interesting to see what the code I provided compares with your other paint. On my 4 M37CDNs, not one is exactly the same until you get down to the first coat. A couple of them have some unique door skin repairs with successive layers of arm bondo, each painted with the dark green. Drivers doors seem to be the worse for wear on all of them. The panel I used as a sample had at least 6 different coats on it and they came off in layers of 2 or 3 with a razor blade. The original coat stayed put and was buffed up to copy. Some of the newest coats on the same truck are chalky and quite faded, far more than on the others. I'm no painter but wanted to get a good coat on my truck to protect it and I like the darker shades best.