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Old 10-06-15, 03:58
Mike K's Avatar
Mike K Mike K is offline
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this is a timely topic. I have the C8 radiator out and I have been fitting a Lucas C39 generator for a 12V system . I cannot justify a single 6V battery as all my other vehicles are 12v

Anyway I pulled the dissy out , wish I hadnt now. I stuffed around trying to re install it to the correct timing ........... anyway its back in I think . With a quick spin over on the starter motor, I could not get oil pressure on the gauge as I normally do , me thinks , the tang isn't engaging the oil pump drive slot . After numerous attempts .... I realised something else is wrong . I then drove the oil pump with a drill down the hole , still no oil pressure on the gauge . What the hell is going on .

I removed the oil line to the gauge on the side of the engine. I turned the oil pump over manually with a screwdriver down the hole..... a little burp and oil came out ... with finger over the outlet I can feel oil pressure . the pump is working OK

The thin oil pipe to the gauge , I removed the gauge end and blew down the pipe.... it was not completely blocked but came free after a while

Anyway back together, still no oil pressure ...... even after running for the engine with no radiator for 10 seconds

Then it dawned on me, with this very cold weather , the oil has increased viscosity . I checked the oil in the sump ,it looks rather thick and I think I put Morays in it years ago. I compared the flow rate of the sump oil with new 20/50 oil... dripping it off the dip stick New oil flows much easier than the treacle in the sump. Hopefully the gauge will work with fresh oil in the sump
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
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Last edited by Mike K; 10-06-15 at 04:18.
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Old 10-06-15, 04:41
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
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Originally Posted by Mike Kelly View Post
....
Anyway back together, still no oil pressure ...... even after running for the engine with no radiator for 10 seconds

Then it dawned on me, with this very cold weather , the oil has increased viscosity . I checked the oil in the sump ,it looks rather thick and I think I put Morays in it years ago. I compared the flow rate of the sump oil with new 20/50 oil... dripping it off the dip stick New oil flows much easier than the treacle in the sump. Hopefully the gauge will work with fresh oil in the sump
On a working farm on the edge of the wilderness, I've seen bulldozers with an oil burner that slides under the main oil pan for cold starts. Start a fire, slide the pan under the cold-soaked block and start turning it over. When is so cold the oil is jelly, how much use is a radiator?
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  #3  
Old 10-06-15, 08:33
harrygrey382 harrygrey382 is offline
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I've run stuff a few times with no rad, I never run it hotter than when I can comfortably keep my hand on the head. Also wouldn't do it it at all with a wet sleeve diesel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Kelly View Post
this is a timely topic. I have the C8 radiator out and I have been fitting a Lucas C39 generator for a 12V system . I cannot justify a single 6V battery as all my other vehicles are 12v

Anyway I pulled the dissy out , wish I hadnt now. I stuffed around trying to re install it to the correct timing ........... anyway its back in I think . With a quick spin over on the starter motor, I could not get oil pressure on the gauge as I normally do , me thinks , the tang isn't engaging the oil pump drive slot . After numerous attempts .... I realised something else is wrong . I then drove the oil pump with a drill down the hole , still no oil pressure on the gauge . What the hell is going on .

I removed the oil line to the gauge on the side of the engine. I turned the oil pump over manually with a screwdriver down the hole..... a little burp and oil came out ... with finger over the outlet I can feel oil pressure . the pump is working OK

The thin oil pipe to the gauge , I removed the gauge end and blew down the pipe.... it was not completely blocked but came free after a while

Anyway back together, still no oil pressure ...... even after running for the engine with no radiator for 10 seconds

Then it dawned on me, with this very cold weather , the oil has increased viscosity . I checked the oil in the sump ,it looks rather thick and I think I put Morays in it years ago. I compared the flow rate of the sump oil with new 20/50 oil... dripping it off the dip stick New oil flows much easier than the treacle in the sump. Hopefully the gauge will work with fresh oil in the sump
The 216 in my C15A, which is within rebuild specs has a very annoying issue at the moment. If it sits for a while (several months) it won't build up oil pressure - seems to lose its prime. Or maybe it would eventually but it takes too long for me. So I pull the dizzy out, whizz the oil pump over with a long slotted driver in a drill (and it gets good oil pressure fast then) then put the dizzy back on. Getting pretty quick at the whole process without losing time. You just have to line the oil pump slot up to where the dizzy will be when it's in time - which takes a bit of trial and error as the helical teeth rotate it a bit as you push it in.
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Old 11-06-15, 03:52
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Originally Posted by harrygrey382 View Post


The 216 in my C15A, which is within rebuild specs has a very annoying issue at the moment. If it sits for a while (several months) it won't build up oil pressure - seems to lose its prime. Or maybe it would eventually but it takes too long for me. So I pull the dizzy out, whizz the oil pump over with a long slotted driver in a drill (and it gets good oil pressure fast then) then put the dizzy back on. Getting pretty quick at the whole process without losing time. You just have to line the oil pump slot up to where the dizzy will be when it's in time - which takes a bit of trial and error as the helical teeth rotate it a bit as you push it in.
Your problem may be caused by air in the pipe from the engine up to the gauge . You might try bleeding the pipe , unscrew the connection at the gauge , do not remove the pipe but leave it on the gauge. Run the engine til oil appears at the gauge end , then tighten up the connection .

During the time the engine is just sitting in your shed, oil may flow back down the pipe if a air leak is present at the gauge end .
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1940 cab 11 C8
1940 Morris-Commercial PU
1941 Morris-Commercial CS8
1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.)
1942-45 Jeep salad
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  #5  
Old 11-06-15, 08:09
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hrpearce hrpearce is offline
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Sometimes my gauge doesn't move till I tap the glass after I start the engine.
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