How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

One of the sender has a double cork float that appears to be sealed. The other sender has the wire curved looking like it would snap around a brass float, however there is no float. I was thinking of dipping the cork floats in the Mac's tank sealer to seal them against any fuel.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

As somebody mention, I think in a thread in the last year, that after sealing a cork float make sure it still floats. They had dried a cork float then coated it in gas tank sealer got the entire thing reassembled in the tank in the truck to discover that the sealed cork no longer was buoyant in gasoline.

This made me check float assemblies I rebuilt using brass floats before I put them in the tank.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

I never use old corks on my fine wine bottles..... and I think the same applies to a 75 years old dried up cork....

I would be concerned that they are soooo dry they act as a sponge and suck way tooo much of the sealer....almost to the pointof overcoming their natural ability to float.

some of the corks we have removed were coming apart when rolled between your fingers.

Besides Jordan lives in the Ontario Wine country and should be able to get new cork easily..... and I don't mean by emptying the bottle in your glass.

Cheers (hic!!)

[Jordan Baker]

Good point Phill and Bobeeee. I didn't think of the fact they would soak up too much and be heavy. Brass it is. Im not a fan of rotten grapes (I mean wine) so that avenue wont help me much. lol

[Jordan Baker]

Not much to report. I was able to get a Map light switch tag made up. It was made with a laser engraving machine. I feel that it turned out looking rather nice.

[Jordan Baker]

Finished rebuilding both fuel tank senders. I checked them out with the ohm meter and got decent readings. They were given a sandblasting to make the arms clean and free moving. I painted the tops in POR15 to hopefully seal out any chance of rust inside them. I picked up new floats from Mac's Antique Auto. They fit perfectly in the curved part on the arm.

[Jordan Baker]

I have finally started in on doing major body work. I removed the cab lower wall skin using a spot welding drill bit. it worked reasonably well except I found it cut into the base metal sometimes and other times it really wandered around. When I removed the skin three of the wall braces fell right out. I went down to metalsuper market today and picked up a sheet of 18ga sheet metal. They cut it all to size for me. Tomorrows task is to sandblast the frame and then begin attaching the panel. Once I get this done i will be moving onto the roof.

One aspect I am not to sure about is how to paint the backside of the frame. I would like to POR15 it but then Im worried about how to weld the skin on. If I weld the skin then POR15 everything will I get it sealed enough to stop rust formation inside the joint?