Lynx II, hull # 4225

[Peter Duggan]

Charlie,

Sent you a PM.

Peter

[Peter Duggan]

Folks,

Strange how life works at times. I had the original ignition coil shielding box with the Lynx, but no cover. Got a second box from Stew Robertson, but again, no cover. Lo and behold, the collection of Lynx parts that J.P. Brescacin generously offered me had an elusive cover. Great feeling when these small bits come together. Got to paint some more small pieces, and moved some more item from the "to be rebuilt" shelving to the "ready to install" shelving.

Life goes on, Peter

2015-07-13 17.34.01.jpg 2015-07-13 17.06.41.jpg

[chris vickery]

Kinda nice, isn't it? When you first get a project and it seems overwhelming.
My father's advice? Do not look at it as a whole; consider it a bunch a parts that make up sub assemblies. A bunch of sub assemblies make up the whole thing. Pick something, tear it apart, fix it. Put it on the shelf.
One day there are no more assemblies to fix/restore or paint.
Now it is time to take them and start bolting together.
Whenever I get into a project I try to do a little each day. Even if it is indirect work, such as reading up on the manual, picking up parts etc.
One day it will all come together.
Keep up the great work!

[Big D]

Hi Peter,

It looks like another great restoration in progress. Very interesting.

Going back a few pages on your restoration thread, I am curious about the method used to weld the hull back together. I noted Chris's early comments about the type of rod to use and the question of sandblasting.

What did your welder do and use in the end? It looks like he did a fine job whatever he did.

Did the hull have to be shimmed/packed at all to allow for the cut that was made in the demilitarising?

Was a backing plate required when he was welding?

Thanks.

[Peter Duggan]

Darryl,

I will attempt to describe the work that Gerald did, any errors are all mine. Neither the frame or hull were sandblasted prior to the welding. The areas were well cleaned with the aid of angle grinders and wire wheels.

Gerald decided that the frame should be done first to aid in determining the hull fit. He also decided to use "Bohler E 7018-1 1/8"rod since he didn't want to put too much heat into the hull or frame and introduce cracking.

Once the frame was square and true and welded up, we placed the frame underneath the hull and loosely bolted them together using the mounting points.

Using "come alongs" and spreader bars the two halves were aligned and tacked together. Then using wedges, shims, some welded oversize nuts, with smaller bolts the fine tuning was done until everything squared up.

We were very fortunate that when the hull was cut in half that they opened up the escape hatches first and we were able to use the doors as a further reference.

Backing plates were used and the sides of the old cuts were bevelled and then welded up in successive layers.

I am extremely pleased at his workmanship and how well it looks. The hull floor still requires work but that is for another day.

I just wish that I had taken more pictures of his work when it was taking place.

Peter

IMG_1418 (2).jpg IMG_1433 (2).jpg IMG_1444 (2).jpg

[lynx42]

Peter, I am amazed at how many changes there were between the Lynx III, III* (Lynx I) and your Lynx II.

The photo of the inside of the escape hatch door is just one example. Here is a similar photo of my door.

KVE Corowa2014 013.JPG

It does not have the footman loops and has a different latch arrangement as well. Even the latch handle is different.

The wiring system and location is another.

It is good to see proof that the escape hatch doors were painted the same colours as the outside of the vehicle. If it was painted white like the interior, it would stand out like dogs b@#ls when open and give the vehicle location away. What is stenciled on the door?

Regards Rick.

[Big D]

Hi Peter

Thanks for that. That explains things nicely and very interesting how it all came together.