Restoration of Canadian Scout Car Ford Lynx I, Mk.III No.1726

[lynx42]

After painting the chassis after everything was re-fitted the rear wheels were put on and the new brake lines to both the front and rear axles.

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The fuel pump and filter was refitted and plumbed up to where the 3 way tap will be situated.

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A very short steering column was fitted for a reason. You will see next post.

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It was time to move the chassis out of one part of my workshop and into another.

Regards Rick.

[lynx42]

Out in the sunshine for the first time on the 5th January 2014. just 34 weeks and 2 days from when we pushed it into the shed.

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If you look off to the far right top of this photo you will get a glimpse of some future projects. Cab11 F30S, Ford Marmon-Herrington Scout Car. Cab 12 F60L with Recouperater body, Ford M-H chassis and just hidden is my Saracen. (The one I drove in the late 1960's with the 4/19th Prince of Walse's Light Horse.)

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The steering wheel was to help with the moving.

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Stacks of new carrier track in the background. That is for my VicRail carrier No 2250 which lost out to the Lynx when Jill asked what I was taking to Corowa for the "Year of the Ford and WWI".

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Doesn't it look good. It looks fast in this photo.

Rick.

[lynx42]

Jill drove my 4 wheel drive and towed me up the drive. What a step forward that was.

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The steering felt good and there were no noises to worry about. The original tyres are still on the front axle here, but the new ones on the rear.

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Our Nissan Civilian bus motor home is up on the hoist for some routine maintenance. So I was not JUST working on the Lynx.

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My short 25pdr. in the carport. I have a long way to go with it but it is coming together slowly.
Can you see the smile?
Next the chassis was pushed back into the shed close to where the hull was sitting awaiting all it's bit.

This then allowed me more room to fit the brake pipes etc.

Rick.

[lynx42]

With the chassis in another part of my workshop I was able to get on with the brake and hydraulic lines. These are in three different sizes and I was lucky to find a local bearing shop had all three sizes.

Unfortunately they did not have all of the fittings and unions so I had to make do with some of the original ones.

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I had been very careful to save every rusty pipe from the chassis. These were photographed, labeled and also had the identifying name and direction the fluid flowed painted on them.

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The three way fuel tap has to be positioned very exactly as it bolts up under the hull floor when the hull is lowered into place. It has three countersunk bolts to keep it steady in place. It was quite difficult to get it in the right place but patience prevailed.

The hydraulic line to the clutch master cylinder is seen here coming square off the chassis rail.

The A4 sheet of paper is the pipes diagram showing where the many lines have to go. I am luck to have the workshop manual and parts book to photostat and take to the shed instead of getting greasy thumb prints all over them. The pipes cross over and under each other as they go from the front of the chassis to the back brakes. The hydraulic line to the accelerator slave cylinder is one of the others see here as well.

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The petrol tanks are fitted in this photo so I had better get on with the story about them.

Anyone notice another couple of projects in the back ground?

In the corned is my Commer (read Humber) FV1600 1 ton 4x4. with 22,384 miles on the clock. Next to that is Bren Gun Carrier No.2250 and on the left is the Hercules JXD engine out of my White Scout Car. We wore that one out and it is there to show people what powered the White S/car.

Regards Rick.

[Mike Cecil]

I seem to remember at 16, it was those painted sinners I was after!!

And Jack O'D was, when I was first starting our in MV restoration, the chief exponent of the 'puff of paint' hiding a multitude of sins!! (I'm sure Keef W can add to that comment!)

But enough of that .... very good job Rick , and some powerful images (of Jill) for us all to show our wives! (and that's me on the receiving end of the frying pan!)

You probably explained this somewhere back along this thread, but what made you choose Light Stone/Portland Stone as the chassis topcoat? Is that the colour you will use throughout?

Best regards

Mike

[Dinty]

I'm thoroughly enjoying this rebuild thread, I also have a T/A wife, coffee maker etc etc cheers Dennis

[lynx42]

When you re-cant a story like this one it is easy to get things out of order or to miss some photos you want to show.

This has happened here. In post #104. the steering box had been refitted but without photos. Well I found some.

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One of the three holding bolts had sheared off many years ago below the steering box mounting face. Plenty of heat did no good. I had to carefully centre punch the broken bolt and then gently drill it out using about 4 drills of increasing size until the thread was just visible and then I taped the remainder out. That took about 4 hours to do.

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I then was able to pull it all apart and get the bearing sizes for new bearings as mentioned in post #104.

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Re-assemble was straight forward. I had to set the box up with the steering shaft in the centre where the steering wheel would have been at mid position. I tightened the adjusting screw just enough to remove any play between the roller and the worm, then replaced the lock plate and tightened up the lock nut.

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There is a bit of a trick to remove or replace the roller shaft cover. (The red primed one in this photo.) You have to turn the adjusting screw in the centre of the cover in a clockwise direction until the screw driver slot is clear of the cover. The cover is then slid off sideways off the end of the selector shaft. Re-assembly is done the reverse way.

Regards Rick.