Wanted: Chev Blitz C15A North QLD

[Private_collector]

Cool. Look forward to seeing the pictures.

It's time you made friends with someone who has a trailer! Car trailer preferred. If not already, get yourself known to the local vintage car clubs. The more eyes looking around for you, the better. The Townsville Veteran, Vintage, and Historic Vehicle club secterary is 4773 5651 (Kevin Warren), or email KWA61532@bigpond.net.au and try the Military and Historic Vehicle club, Townsville. Dont have contact details, but will be on the internet somewhere.

Good luck.

[Keith Webb]

I know it's about a 4 1/2 hour drive Luke, but Sid Beck had many CMPs at Mareeba, and I know since his death some of them have been sold.

[Luke Jackson]

Might be worth going for a 4 hour ride on the Harley - any excuse

I tried sending the museum an email, but am getting errors. I also contacted Kevin, so feelers are out! Just waiting on these Ballarat truck photos....

[Luke Jackson]

Here are some photos. The bloke wants 2 grand and will make the truck as s 'complete as possible' and will take the crane off the back and barrel and counterweight off the front. Transporting the thing will be the real killer as we're on opposite ends of the country. What do you guys reckon? Apparently it was running a while ago, but he drove it too long with a 12v battery and cooked the dizzy. Been out in the weather for 6 years.

[Richard Coutts-Smith]

Crane trucks often have modified/butchered chassis due to the strain and forces that they were not designed to cope with.
Vendors idea of complete maybe very different to your own.
All trucks were running when last used.
From the pics, money could be spent a lot wiser.
If you are going to search so far and wide, it does open your options up. Here is a comparison for location, condition and price: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WW2-Army-...p2054897.l4275

Sale may be over by the time you look, but the pics and info will give you an idea. (not to mention the vendor is on MLU)
Rich.

[Private_collector]

Luke,

I do agree with Richard. $2000 is a lot for that condition. Heaps of rust holes means HUGE effort repairing, or more likely, further searching for replacement parts. Dents are a relatively easy fix. A bit of gentle persuasion, and a little filler, all fixed. Rust holes are a major time waster, and a real big pain. Even worse, they will be expensive if you need to pay pros to do the job.

Can you give us some information on what areas of expertise you guys have. What restoration or repair experience do you have, or are wanting to learn? I guess what I'm wanting to know is, what things will you need to pay other people to do.
CMP as found 1.jpg Front end installed 1.jpg Front signage 1.jpg passenger door repair 1.jpg Engine with external parts test fit 2.jpg
The above photos are of various stages of my rebuild. The 'as found' photo, does not show that I also got a almost intact cab and some rather rare parts, such as original side curtains (I had new ones made from the remains), spare tyre rack, tool box, etc... I have spent over three years solid work, and a couple years very little work, to arrive at being roughly 60% done. I know you have more people to work on yours, but I think you can get substantially more for $2000. If you don't do better initially, you may be up for much, much more later on. Even worse, you could lose interest if things stall for want of usable parts.

Incidentally, the engine you see in the photos, is a buildup of all new mechanicals, block, water pumps, carburetor, distributor, etc, etc.... If you want to piddle away cash, follow my lead. If are clever, you will use my actions as a WARNING, and avoid what I have done. It would be embarrassing to admit how much money has been sunk into my engine. I should have gone to a hotrod shop and reversed their 'modifications'.

Beware of the 'it ran a while ago' engine. I bought a Ford Sidevalve from a supposed fellow enthusiast/restorer which was supposed to be a "good, rebuildable engine". When I removed the heads, entire engine was solid with rust and full of water. If you don't get to hear the engine running, best to assume it's stuffed! If it is knackered, you won't be surprised. If it isn't bad at all, that's a big bonus. Mind you, if swapping it for a later engine, who cares anyway. Check the chassis VERY WELL for cracks and bad welding any time in last 70+ years. Some trucks were absolutely flogged to death, and chassis often showed this. Mine was shortened, but salvagable, though not without specialist welding first. That said, I haven't finished the truck, so it's not been tested yet!

Please don't feel we are discouraging you, Luke. In fact, it's quite the opposite. All the folks here are motivated to encourage and assist where possible. I can only speak for myself with the next statement. I feel there are better vehicles for that kind of price.

[Tony Mathers]

I will add to what Tony Baker has said:

From my recent experience, you will save yourself a fortune if you buy a $10,000 going concern as compared to a $1 -> $3000 almost going blitz.

You would be shocked when you get all the bills to get one running... and then there is the time it takes....


But if you have the time and the money, go for it as it is an excellent and rewarding undertaking.

Tony