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Well am thinking I can afford one now; so why keep it as an idea?
I also need to get myself distracted :-) |
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![]() Quote:
![]() Last edited by Michael R.; 11-11-15 at 19:44. |
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My advice, buy the best you can afford. In the end it will save you a lot of grief, a lot of money and will likely be cheaper than a full out restoration. Unless you like that kind of thing...
__________________
3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
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There are members of MLU with extensive knowledge of ferrets; I am not one of them. One MLU member has owned more than fifty ferrets.
Buying the 'best' ferret one can afford may overlook critical failure prone and difficult to acquire spares particular or specific to the ferret. Attactive paint scheme vs bevel box updates? Being in Canada, the requirement to import those spares from the UK can be a learning experience in export controls, currency exchange, shipping costs and availability. I am done. Time to get off the podium. |
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Michael
I was certainly not critiquing your advice regarding a sound evaluation by one of many experts by no means. I was simply pointing out the obvious, in that many novice MV enthusiasts fall into the trap of, which is, "I'll buy it, it's cheap and I can fix it up..." Spending a few more dollars on a solid vehicle can be the difference between a nightmare and a decent enjoyable vehicle. I see this all the time when guys buy something because it runs while the body is ready to fall off. One has to be knowledgeable enough to decipher what matters and what doesn't when making a purchase. As an example, give me a Jeep with a pristine body and a crapped out drive line. I would take that all day long over something that runs with junk bodywork...Or, in the case of a ferret, excellent mechanicals and a rusty scally hull with a flaking paint job vs the fancy paintwork atop a crapped out drive line. I think we have all fallen prey to this at one point or another. ![]()
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers Last edited by chris vickery; 12-11-15 at 01:15. |
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Yes Chris, I agree with you.
Sandblast and paint a hull any day over rebuilding a ferret Rolls Royce power pack with PSG. ![]() |
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I kind of agree, while I can fix any faulty or rusty body part, I will be relying on others to fix engine or transmission failures. Simply not my capability. That being said and while I appreciate Chris's comments, I still haven't found that pristine vehicle that I would consider. The best one on offer in ON which I was offered on this forum looks great but is still lacking in many ways and is offered for the top dollar. To buy it the price has to be negotiated.
A vehicle found in holland for example is offered at much much less and is in 'completion, class. I think I am avoiding a junk project and a top dollar approach and am going for the fix this fix that type of vehicle. It's not the money, it's the idea.. |
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