Chevrolet C8 1940 Cab 11 restoration, The Netherlands

[Alex van de Wetering]

They have franchised mobile repair trucks

Phil, I quite like the idea of those specialised repair trucks. I have also seen mobile sand blasting in action and have also heard about allow wheel repair trucks, mobile dent repair and paint shops.

Neat idea using the dremel to make the spacers

Mike, it was quite easy to make the shims with the (fake) dremel and some simple tools. I just made sure to clamp the stainless to the workbench, as rotating tools and thin sheet metal can make a real mess.

Alex

[Alex van de Wetering]

The filling station sleeved my second master cylinder (thanks again Guido) and also supplied new U-bolts for the front axle. The correct size for the C8 was not available from stock, but they made a set of slightly longer bolts for just a few dollars extra.

This time with the master cylinder I cleaned all threads thoroughly and installed the cylinder after marking the studs with a white line.....just to make sure the studs wouldn't turn while securing the nuts (studs secured by hand this time and secured with some Lock tite).

The shock links were far gone. I tried finding replacements, but didn't have much luck.

Alex

[Alex van de Wetering]

I decided to re-use the C-shaped end that fits around the arm of the shock absorber, and have some new rods made up. The local machine shop made new ones for the front and back of the truck. I drilled a hole in the "C" and made sure the new rods would protrude about half an inch. Both pieces were than welded together.

Dirk at LWD has the proper NOS rubber bushings and retainers available (in the Ford section) for the axle end of the rod.
I bought a Dodge WC set from Jeepest in France for the other end, which supplied pin/bolt, nut and a new steel bushing for the rubber bushing in the end of the shock arm. I had already replaced the latter with new rubber bushings bought at a militaria fair (also Dodge WC I believe)....put the rubber in boiling water, hoping this would make the rubber softer and easier to fit....didn't really help....some grease did!

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Alex

Have you considered cutting the rusted part of your link rods and welding a grade 8 fine thread bolt of suitable lenght?

I sharpened the old rod and the bolt to a pencil shape...... used a section of 1 inch angle to insure line up of both rods.... just set the rods in the vee .

If you cut out a small window in a 12 inch angle iron section the rods will line up and the window will give you access to weld..... easy with a mig...... grind off any excess after and you done.

cheers

[Mike K]

Do the shocks on these trucks actually have any effect or movement ? being a short wheelbase and rather solid , there isn't much swaying or spring movement ? I didn't touch the shocks on my C8, and haven't noticed any problems with it on the road . Mike

[Bob Carriere]

With the amount of spring leaves they do not do much. I drove my rolling chassis C15a across rolling fields and did not notice much difference before or after the shock links were connected and all my shocks arms were naturally stiff and the shocks toped off with hydraulic fluid.

Maybe with a full load at speed (35mph) it might be different.

Cheers

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

Bob is correct, with no load the shocks don't have much if any effect on the ride. On my HUP driving with out shocks is noticeable. I've noticed the difference even more when one of links breaks. With the HUP one disconnected is far more noticeable than pair.

On the 3 tons the shocks don't do much on cab chassis or even on C60L with cargo body because the springs are so stiff. I suspect that the once the GVW gets up around 10,000lbs on the 3 tons that the shocks start to work.

There used to be a nice straight uniform bump across are road where a culvert crossed under road. When I'd hit that driving the HUP you knew if a link had let go. Being a late version mine has the metal ball type and over the years all four have failed generally at the lower weld. Each has been rewelded. Pictures of link and break point http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/HUPdetailphotos.html

Alex think I'll follow your idea on having new shafts made, though Bob's approach might be quicker. The shocks for my C60L are still sitting on the shelf to be installed.

Cheers Phil

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob, I did indeed think about cutting the link and welding a bolt to the end, but I wasn't completely sure where to weld as I would also need the small lip to keep the retainers in position. This meant I either had to weld on a washer to act as a lip, or weld just below the existing lip.

Mike, regarding your question, I have no experience on driving CMP's, so I have nothing to add to Bob's and Phil's comments.....well, one addition maybe..... The front shock links on the C8 fix to a thick plate that is bolted to the front axle, as you know. One of these plates on my C8 did show wear and the round hole turned oval in the meantime. After checking I noticed the link and hole are not completely in-line, which obviously resulted in the hole turning oval.....so, there is some movement, but probably not too much as Bob and Phil described.

Alex