T16 running problems

[andrew honychurch]

I probably do mean Autolite actually, yes! Getting old and tired. It doesn't have a tag on it but it is very like a Jeep regulator other than the clip top and spring contacts.

[andrew honychurch]

http://s714.photobucket.com/user/van....jpg1.jpg.html

Here is a shot of the T16 regulator for reference. Sorry it's a poor photo

image.jpg1.jpg

[horsa]

There were two types of regulator housing. The one with clamp around the center is the T-16 early pattern. Latter looks just like those used in a jeep but it has higher capacity guts being 12v 55amp which were the same as found on the U.S. half-tracks.

Vintage Power Wagons in the USA produced electronic replacement guts to fit the regulator housings. Not sure if they still make them or not but it's what I had in my carrier.

http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9136 Message #161 in my old carrier restoration thread shows the later style regulator housing for reference. Guts should fit in either housing though since its a digital circuit board.

[andrew honychurch]

It seems barely possible but its now nearly 2 years since I posted on this thread about ignition problems with the Divers Helmet. Well I had used the T16 around the field but it still stopped every time it got hot.. Today I pulled the distributor. Is it getting harder in there or am I getting older. Boy its tight. Anyway, on looking at the distributor its not wonder that the coil was working over time and hence overheating. The rotor arm is burnt to crazy around the contacts and some of the bacolite has burnt/chipped away. One set of points is stuck closed, not sure why, possibly it has slipped but oddly she was running on 8 last time I drove it. I am using a 12 volt high output coil through the adaptor that fits on the top of the dizzy instead of the 6 volt coil. I wonder whether the 12 volt is too much for the old rotor arm and its tracking right through it and creating near full time sparking hence the firing on 8. Seems highly improbable but one is forced to think about odd situations when things don't make sense.

So , pretty sure rotor arm is totally finished and probably at fault, but was the 12 volt the fault, or the constantly closed points on one side of the distributor? ( its a twin point set up)

I am now going to give up on the divers helmet , I have heard just so many tales of woe, and since it was perfectly rebuilt and set up only about 150 miles ago its not really upto the job.

Would be interested in observations . Andrew

[andrew honychurch]

Some photos of the offending items, and luckily I discovered I had bought a box of new Rotor arms!

[Dave Newcomb]

Hi all; There is a site for the Ford problems/sales Fordbarn.com the Early V8 posts are the Flathead stuff... lots of Early Ford V8 club members there and the best ign guru is Bubba's electronics co. Newc in Oregon USA

[Lynn Eades]

Andrew, If you still have the dizzy out, have it checked again. making sure the dwell is correct and timed correctly. (one set of points does each) I have heard that this dizzy is better than the later crab.
As far as load goes, dont be tempted to over gap your plugs. The bigger the gap, the higher the voltage required to fire them and as you know that spark is always looking for the easy way out.
I have read some but not all of the thread, but have your coil tested. It needs to be tested hot as it would be in use. That's when it will break down. (the standard 6 volt coils including NOS ones are guaranteed to fail) It is a hot enviroment inside those engine covers and everything needs to be clean and tight with good insulation.
Make sure your adapter has no signs of tracking or cracks.
Used points are good because the gaps don't change so quickly.
If there is any rust on the points springs then they easily break.
If you are going electronic, then pertronix do a unit that goes straight in.
I would suggest a Pertronix II.
They recommend resistor leads (should be fitted with all electronic igns)
There are leads available that have spiral wound stainless cores along with the carbon. I have gone this way but as yet cannot report on them.
You will need the correct coil to go with the system.
There is no condensor with used when you convert to electronic.
Good condensors are harder to find than they used to be.
Basically you have to go through it all to guarantee a good result.
Finding someone who is good with the distributors and has a timing jig and can run the dizzy up on a distributorgraph would be ideal.
Good luck with what ever you do.